Ciao! Aug/Sep 2023 Ciao Aug:Sep 2023 Digital | Page 13

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alcoholic cider . He immersed himself in research and set out to study cider making in Oregon .
It was early in the summer of 2020 , when Marcus and Matthew met at a charity function . It was about a week after Matthew returned home from California , with his young family , leaving a covid impacted wine career at a 3-star Michelin restaurant . When Matthew learned about Marcus ’ s new venture , he asked to see the action . That started it all . “ I kept showing up every day , until he eventually started paying me ”, Matthew teases . A year later , Matthew acquired a formal partnership role overseeing the tap room and marketing .
At the heart of the partnership is an ambitious quest for world class flavour . Quality ciders start with quality apples and Manitoba is one of the best apple growing regions in the world . Hot summers create ideal growing conditions for complex varieties .
DHC capitalizes on this abundance and a simple equation of supply and demand . Unused fruit from Manitoba trees provides the basis for its product . Relying on others to procure your product ’ s main ingredient may seem risky , but confidence was well placed . To date , volumes have doubled every year and now 300 apple growers are contributing to Manitoba ’ s cidery . The one tradeoff that comes with varying apple deliveries from multiple sources is losing some control over the production cycle .
When apples arrive , they are sorted based on ripeness and acidity level and the desired cider being made . Underripe apples make a tart beverage . Overripe apples produce a sweeter , rich , style with higher alcohol content . Good apples are washed in a microbial rinse before going in the mill where they are crushed and separated into pomace and juice . Pomace , a thick and drier apple sauce like by-product is often picked up by nearby chefs who are raising their own pigs . “ Sometimes we get some bacon out of it !” Matthew exudes .
Though managing apple deliveries and press details present an ongoing challenge , Matthew quickly adds , “ it is also what makes cider production so creative , and fun . We are constantly adapting our plan to reflect the batches of apples that arrive ”. He admits there are days he adopts the persona of a mad chemist seeking precision in taste . Yet this dance between chemist and artist is something this sommelier is up for .
Apples are much like grapes . As green and purple grapes transform into numerous wine varietals , apple varieties can become different types of ciders . In turn , flavour profiles of the same apple vary year to year based on weather conditions , lending nuance to the taste of the ciders .
Cider flavours have extended to include infusions of regional fruit . Thirst quenching mixtures of sour cherries , berries and rhubarb capitalize on the astonishing variety of fresh fruit available nearby . On cue , Matthew opens a tub of freshly picked cherries . The sour juicy burst of flavour pops on the palate . It is apparent why DHC ’ s Cherry on Cider is a top seller . Fresh , ripe raspberries are anticipated to start arriving in a few weeks .
Fruity ciders are generally marketed as a beer alternative , but processed cider , made from raw apples is more like wine making . Tanks are used to ferment most varietals , wood barrels stacked throughout the stylish taproom are used to age reserve lines . Longer ageing melds the flavours , adding a complexity that positions them as a superb alternative to wine with dinner . Packaging and labelling these longer aged , limited reserve lines in wine size bottles shifts consumer perception for the product at the same time .
As grass root entrepreneurs , Marcus and Matthew are getting it right . Between ingredients , equipment , orchard build out and an unwavering commitment to their community , the vision to redefine how people think about Manitoba ’ s apples , and regional fruit , is well on its way to reality . Every farmers ’ market is an opportunity to deepen community ties . Senior executive parents , Garry and Edna Wiebe are stellar brand ambassadors .
As consumers begin to flock to the rural cidery ’ s stylish taproom as their new country watering hole , world class quality becomes evident . For these local enthusiasts , it ’ s not just about the drink . Dead Horse Cider Company is a complete foodie experience that combines agriculture , tourism and cider making artistry on a southern Manitoba farm destination . Success has blossomed in a few short years and we ’ re ready to taste what comes next .
ciao ! / aug / sep / two thousand twenty-three 11