Ciao! Aug/Sep 2022 | Page 25

ASOYAMA
Neighbourhood .. Linden Ridge Address .... 1717 Kenaston Blvd Phone ............. 204-487-4222 Entrées .................... $ 11- $ 20
Japanese cuisine is adored for its sushi , attracting diners with dozens of rice roll ups concealing delicious bits of fish and seafood . For those eager to explore a wider scope of Japan ’ s flavours , a handful of Winnipeg restaurants are preparing exciting dishes that offer fresh cuts of fish topped with colourful caviar and green micro-leaves .
Asoyama Sushi ’ s plain exterior belies what lies inside . A substantial dining room is made more intimate with leafy bamboo sticks acting as dividers and stylish fabrics hanging between dining tables . Small tatami dining rooms separated with opaque white screens offer full privacy .
Playful creativity shines on the massive menu . Sashimi and nigri please purists , but additions of bright vinaigrettes and sauces reimagine exciting displays of familiar fish . Starters like hamachi jalapeño and tuna tortilla awaken the taste buds . Citrus laced ponzu enlivens a row of delectable hamachi topped with jalapeños , radish and palate popping fish roe . Hot mustard and honey dill boost each tortilla chip topped with tuna , radish sprouts and jalapeño for exciting bites . Both plates masterfully pair crunch with fresh greens , while packing a hint of heat .
The lengthy list of creative sushi will thrill adventurers . Sweet and spicy sauces along with lavish garnishes amp up signature rolls . The honeymoon roll seductively pleases ciao ! reviews
with its combination of cool cucumber and crisp fried shrimp interior , while seared salmon and sriracha on top leaves the tongue tingling . The R2D2 layers grilled sweet scallops and a mellow spicy mayo on a California roll for a warm variation of a crowd pleaser .
Beyond the nori wrapper , Japanese specialties are plentiful too . Simple grilled eggplant , emboldened with sweet chili and katsuobushi flakes delivers unexpected umami to this veggie . Dori karaage ( fried chicken ), delicately battered and crisp atop shredded lettuce , is a juicy hit .
Concealed in its big box suburban surroundings , Asoyama continues to surprise and delight with cheeky culinary deftness . Despite a wildly ambitious menu , precise execution seems to be its secret to success .
AL BASHA
Neighbourhood ...... Fort Garry Address ..... 1566 Pembina Hwy Phone ............ 204-306-8566 Entrées ..................... $ 8- $ 27
Though Winnipeg ’ s food scene is renowned for diversity , until lately Middle Eastern cuisine has been relatively underrepresented . Al Basha provides an accessible entry point to the cuisine in a welcome oasis on Pembina ’ s south strip . Despite an uncool address , once inside , bold music , chandeliers , upholstery and wall tile offer a vibrant backdrop to the piquant flavours to come .
Beverages are not an afterthought . Even water for the table arrives in high style , in a grandiose copper pitcher with matching glasses . Mixed tropical drinks are made with fruit purées and milk , and wonderful house blended teas , aromatic of floral and spice , can be enjoyed or purchased to take home .
Small plates and shareable spreads make up the food menu . Standards like tzatziki and hummus are well executed , but try muhamara , mouttabal and labneh for more palate-pushing flavour mash-ups : roasted red peppers rounded out with chili , walnuts , and pomegranates ; grilled eggplant , blended smooth with tahini and lemon ; and thick cheese-like yogurt dip . Each is drizzled with fruity olive oil and served with fresh warm pita .
Cold and hot mezze can be made into a meal here . An appetizer of warak enob , lemony olive oildrenched grape leaves stuffed with basmati rice and onions , whets the palate . The mezze plate includes spreads , terrific crisp falafel and a lovely fresh tabbouleh .
Feasts can fit any format . Bowls loaded with fresh and pickled vegetables , grilled meats or fried falafel respond to current food trends , while traditional tagines emphasize nuanced spice blends in familiar tomato stews . Also on offer are big boisterous group dinners of plates concocted from recipes passed down through generations . Mashawi — chargrilled platters of shish kebabs , chicken taouk , kafta , lamb chops or whole chicken served with the favourite sides — offer a luxurious bargain spread . Each dish sings with flavour imparted by ingredients like sumac , pomegranate , harissa and za ’ atar .
Flaky , housemade pastries laced with honey and nuts should not be missed . The cuisine of the Middle East — and most certainly Al Basha — is worth getting to know .
ciao ! / aug / sep / two thousand twenty-two 23