inthekitchen
producer of the year:
Tamarack Farms
Aiming to eat local can mean missing out
on the latest food fad. This seemed the case for
Winnipeggers when quinoa—the protein- and
nutrient-packed seed grown in Peru and other
Andean regions—burst on the superfood scene
in 2013.
Little did we know, four years earlier Ryan
Pengelly and Alexandra Lozada of Tamarack
Farms had started cultivating the ancient grain,
drawing on Alexandra’s Peruvian heritage to
guide the venture. It was an ideal fit for their
farming approach that focuses on small,
rewarding crops that help preserve the aspen
parklands and tamarack bogs on their property.
After testing 20 different seed types, the
couple landed on a variety that thrived in
Manitoba’s short, hot summers and could be
grown organically. This quinoa, branded “nutty
brown”, has a chewier texture and an earthier
flavour than other varieties, and is superb in
salads, burger patties and baked goods.
Since food-consciousness is what brought
them to farming, it was essential to deliver a
field-to-fork product. They control the entire
process, from planting and harvesting to
marketing and selling. “It’s extremely fulfilling to
see where the fruits of your labour are headed,”
says Pengelly.
Sometimes local eating means rediscovering
the land’s indigenous crops; other times, it
means pairing inspiration and innovation to
unlock this land’s potential. This intuitive
approach to bringing an ancient grain to
market has earned Tamarack Farms Ciao!
magazine’s 2019 Good Food Manitoba award
for Producer of the Year.
Since the first harvest in 2014, the product
line has expanded to include flour, brownie,
pancake and soup mixes, found at local Red
River Co-ops, and a selection of specialty food
stores and restaurants.—SR
10
ciao! /aug/sep / two thousand nineteen
of chefs, while maintaining an ongoing
commitment to building relationships
with local producers, Marion Street Eatery
is Ciao! magazine’s 2019 Good Food
Manitoba Restaurant of the Year.
A group of strong, young women call the
shots here; Smith was still in her twenties
when she opened the restaurant in 2014
with close friend Chef Melissa Hyrb. A
self-proclaimed opportunist, she jumped
at the chance to make her dream a reality
when the space inside her parents’ hotel
became available. The duo brought their
vision to life with a drive to be part of the St.
Boniface community.
Restaura nt cook ing has been a n
historically male-dominated trade. But
women-run kitchens are finally gaining
a higher profile. Talented female chefs,
cognizant of this imbalance, have the
opportunity to not only make waves in the
industry but help mentor other women into
leadership roles. Recognizing Chef Camila
Gamboa as an up and coming force, Hyrb
“This is where I’ve grown.”
became a mentor to her, instilling the
importance of patience and teamwork.
Gamboa quickly rose from line cook to
sous chef before being passed the reins of
head chef. “This is where I’ve grown,” she
says, having been with the eatery since 2015.
At just 24 years old, she has become a
role model for young Winnipeg chefs—
particularly young women. Last year, she
visited her alma mater Red River College
to speak to culinary students. Impressed
by the fact that she is a woman in her early
twenties running the show, the students
were entranced. Gamboa hopes that hearing
her story will make other young chefs think,
‘If she can do it, then there’s a chance for
me too.’
The restaurant biz is tough, and it’s
no secret it can be a breeding ground for
harassment (remember Hell’s Kitchen?). By
contrast, MSE’s kitchen is a place where