ciao! reviews
UNDERDOGS
Neighbourhood
Address
Phone
. . . .
. . . .
St. James
2609 Portage Ave
. . . . . . . . . 204-615-6104
Entrées
. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
$9-$18
The ‘sports bar’ has always been
a nebulous category (doesn’t every
bar with a TV turn into one when
the Jets are playing?). Perhaps the
better focus is the sports bar’s appeal.
For those seeking a fun and relaxed
atmosphere, as culinary as it is con-
vivial, Underdogs is the place.
The interior is sleek, lined with flat
screens and decked out in sporty red
and blue stripes. Tables are marked
with jersey numbers and a back room
houses a mini-arcade with air hockey
and lines of retro pinball machines,
a peppy mix of nostalgia and fun for
the elder millennial crowd.
The concept, opened in 2016,
comes from one of the minds behind
Nuburger, and the pedigree shows.
The versatile menu offers both ele-
vated pub grub and some healthful
options, and both the food menu and
the beer selection (more than 30 on
tap) skew local.
Gut-busting burgers and sand-
wiches are highlights of the menu,
messy two-handers that can be eaten
without taking eyes off the game. The
Byfuglien burger cuts beef ’s natural
fatty umami with peppery arugula
and horseradish, all on an earthy-
sweet base of mushrooms and aioli
spiked with roasted garlic.
The chicken sandwich is the cur-
rent reigning champ of the food trend
world. Why wait for the internet-
famous fast food version to hit the
Great White North when Underdogs
has perfected the form? The ‘Larry
Bird’ boasts juicy chicken fried in an
uber-crispy coating, granted depth of
flavour from a splash of local Little
Brown Jug ale in the batter. Bothwell
four-level tavern that presides over
Old Market Square like the grand
dame of Winnipeg’s social scene.
Since opening its doors in 1988, The
King’s Head Pub has become iconic
for its ethnically diverse menu,
dozens of beverages on tap, and live
entertainment lineup like no other.
For those who head to the pub
to unwind, happily the only source
of stress here comes from deciding
which of the more than 30 on-tap
beverages to try. On Saturday nights,
dinner usually becomes a show, when
the top floor turns into one of the
city’s most popular live music venues.
On the wide-ranging menu,
British, Irish, and Indian cuisine is
met with a few Canadian touches.
Curries are a staple on any pub
menu. Vegetable korma, a cream-
based curry with yogurt, cashews,
and raisins, is aromatic and packed
with spice, served with basmati
rice and warm naan bread. For an
authentic tavern experience, dig
into Scotch eggs, a paeon to tra-
ditional pub fare. The Yorkshire
specialty consists of hard-boiled
eggs wrapped in spiced pork,
breaded and fried to a crisp. Served
with mango chutney, the dish hits all
the high notes: sweet, salty, umami-
rich and tangy.
Gazing at the pub’s compendium
of poutine varieties, the message is
clear: The King’s Head takes its chip
stance seriously. Butter chicken
poutine has become a modern
classic in recent years, the Canada-
by-way-of-Delhi dish an unlikely
KING'S HEAD PUB
and yet oh-so-good blend of sweet
and spicy curry with crispy fries and
Neighbourhood . . . . Exchange
gooey cheese.
Address . . . . . . . . . . 120 King St
The burger and sandwich sec-
tion has a lot to offer, with King’s
Phone . . . . . . . . . 204-957-7710
Head staples like the “Big Khanuja
Entrées . . . . . . . . . . . . . . $6-$18
Burger,” but the prime rib sandwich
is a must-try for Anglophiles look-
As far as post-clockout atmos- ing to be transported via tastebuds
phere goes, it doesn’t get much to merry old England. Shaved house-
better than the lively yet laid back, roasted prime rib is topped with
aged cheddar, a perfectly tangy dill
pickle, and a squishy brioche bun
round out the sandwich.
Snack-able sides are also a hit. The
usual suspects like nachos, poutine,
fries and wings by the pound will beg
to be paired with a pint. Deep fried
pickles threaded with a perfect core
of Bothwell cheese are a hot, tangy,
crispy-breaded delight.
To cater to a modern (read: health-
conscious) crowd, the menu also
lists feel-good items that feel like
more than a counter-balancing after-
thought to deep fryer fare. A wrap
stuffed with housemade falafel is
stand-out, well spiced with a peppery
kick. Pickled onions, fresh veg and a
garlic-heavy hummus round out the
wrap. The salmon bowl is another
virtuous pick. A well portioned serv-
ing of fish, lightly flavoured with a
mustardy marinade, is laid on a
base of nutty quinoa and topped
with a creamy sauce bursting with
fresh mint. Cucumber, tomato and
crispy chickpeas add pops of texture
and freshness.
Families populate the tables for
intergenerational dinners in the
early evening. As the night wears on,
the crowd may give way to a slightly
rowdier mix of wing night revellers
and pinball enthusiasts. Give in to
the vibe; the game is on, the drinks
are flowing—order another round of
fried pickles for the table.
Underdogs is open Sun-Thu 11:30
am-1 am, Fri & Sat 11:30 am-2 am.
ciao! / apr/may / two thousand twenty
25