Ciao Apr/May 2023 Apr-May 2023 | Page 23

RAE ’ S BISTRO
Neighbourhood . . North Kildonan Address . 9-925 Headmaster Row Phone .............. 204-229-0237 Entrées .................... $ 18- $ 46
The flavours of Rae ’ s Bistro are eclectic and exciting . The location ? A bit more unassuming . At the end of a suburban commercial strip mall neighbouring an animal hospital , medical centre and butcher shop , you ’ ll find grilled pineapple sweetening a new school wedge salad , lamb shank so beautifully braised it breaks free from the bone before a fork meets it and beet and goat cheese infused risotto equally vibrant to the salmon it accompanies .
With a shift in demographics and tastes , locally owned places are finding a home in Winnipeg ’ s suburban extremities and their ambitious cuisine is less unexpected than some may think . Millennials , the new generation driving growth , have increased the urban feel to many suburbs , a change manifested in independent restaurants .
This Kildonan hub offers something modern by elegantly straddling the line between pub and fine dining . Warm lighting and well-spaced tables allow for easy conversation between friends or family in an upbeat setting . A long bar top seated with guests watching the game hints at the welcoming vibe . The expansive menu confirms its aim to accommodate .
Appies deliver bold and rich flavours right from the get-go . Served atop crisp wonton crisps , sushi grade tuna is juxtaposed against sharp notes of thin rings of fresh jalapeno . A generous drizzle of chipotle mayo and a dollop of accompanying mango salsa ciao ! reviews
round out these elevated nachos . Haute ahi appears in a poke bowl and is sandwiched in a casual burger too .
House made ingredients are key to upholding classic recipes . Sauces , dressings , breads and desserts are all made from scratch and attention to the details really shine . A burst of citrus enlivens a poppyseed dressing on a butter leaf wedge salad , playfully updated with grilled pineapple , blueberries , pomegranate and pumpkin seeds . Sweet apple and sundried cranberries get a jolt from red onion in an enticing mixture of greens glazed in a blood orange balsamic and honey rosemary vinaigrette .
Eye pleasing food bowls embrace ingredients that display pretty colours . Seafood linguine hits the mark for comfort seekers . Dressing that linguine , a rose sauce pops with plump white prawns , scallops and mussels fortified with roasted red peppers , spinach and red onions .
Shrimp pesto pizza , true to its namesake layers peppery arugula pesto with sweet white prawns , spinach , red onion , roasted red pepper . A lovely doughy crust and gooey cheese blend stands up to the best pizza places around .
A meal can be enjoyed without ordering an entrée , but to forego New Zealand lamb shank perched on a pool of piquant tangy harissa , sprinkled with toasted almonds would be to miss one of the best we ’ ve tried . Luscious mushroom risotto rounds out the earthy bites with its decadent creaminess .
Finish the evening with a divine piece of pumpkin chai cheesecake and be happy for new suburban restaurants with pros at the wheel .
Rae ’ s Bistro is open Sun-Tues , 11:30 am-10pm , Wed , Thur 11:30am-11pm , Fri , Sat 11:30 am-12 am .
CORDOVA
Neighbourhood ........ Exchange Address .......... 93 Albert Street Phone .............. 204-691-1900 Entrées ................... $ 11 – $ 28
The romantic streets of Winnipeg ’ s historic Exchange District has been where the creatives hang for decades . As a result , restaurants in this ‘ hood have somewhat of a leg up when it comes to alluring the cool .
Cordova Tapas and Wine Bar is a beacon for the city ’ s beautiful people , who arrive seeking a whiff of culture and a sip of European flavour . The location is prime ; tucked into a long , narrow space in heritage digs , this spot serves Spanish-style tapas with old world hospitality . The resto-bar changed hands amid covid closures , and the new chef owner is deftly handling the new dining landscape .
Happy smiles , the kind given to friends , and engaging tableside banter invite conversation from the outset . Soft lights casting a pink glow , easy listening music and stylish Mediterranean tilework set a moody backdrop for companions to catch up . Space fills up quickly at the handhoned high-top tables , but sitting intimately shoulder to shoulder along the bar offers a prime view of the cooking action .
It ’ s difficult to remember a time when tapas style eating was a hard sell in this city , the trend has snowballed way beyond the Spanish-inspired pub scene . Shareable plates have won the hearts of diners eager to try something new while keeping options open for another taste .
Here , signature dishes from Spain and France are sautéed swiftly over a couple burners behind the bar , filling
ciao ! / apr / may / two thousand twenty-three 21