Christmas special Issue 27, Winter 2020 | Page 26

Years ago, when Boulogne-sur_mer was open to ferries from the UK, the town was a popular day trip destination. It was often the first French port of call (scuse the pun) for school kids. Its boulangeries inspired a lifelong love of French cakes and bread for millions of children subjected to ready sliced flavourless bread in plastic bags and sticky buns which whilst tasty, simply can’t compare with a jewel-like strawberry tarte.

Coachloads of pensioners were disgorged in the car park of Auchan hypermarket and then let loose in the town to cram into smelly cheese shops and wander the market.

Those with grand ambitions to drive south in search of the sun, disembarked from the ferry and stopped off in the town for a spot of shopping.

However its ease of access somehow made Boulogne less valued than some French towns. Despite its historic centre, cobbled streets and ancient buildings. Its marvellous market, wonderful shops, delicious restaurants, great bars and cafés. Long sandy beaches where you can pluck mussels for your tea and roam the cliff tops full of poppies, climb Napoleon’s column, explore ancient forts, museums and cultural sites. And Nauiscaa, France’s National Sea Centre, the biggest aquarium in Europe. When the ferry route from Boulogne to the UK stopped. So did the tourists.

The town suffered. Shops were no longer full of Brits ooh’ing and ah’ing over Maroilles, the local stinky cheese. The queue at the chateau museum on a rainy day had gone. The restaurants were no longer full to bursting with happy punters tucking into the local favourite – moules frites.

But time has passed. And, things have changed.

Boulogne-sur-Mer,

northern France