Christmas special Issue 27, Winter 2020 | Page 72

Gastronomy

In spite of its celebrity, Megève is still a thriving farming town as I discover when I accompany a herd of cows down from their summer pastures. It’s a family affair with three generations taking part in the celebrations. They tell me they’re passionate about the quality of their milk and the excellence of the cheese they produce. In all, around 45 farms supply around 75 eateries including 35 mountain restaurants. Among the elite are its four Michelin-starred restaurants which boast a total of seven stars among them.

The Flocons de Sel is one of only 27 restaurants in France to hold the coveted three stars. Here Chef Emmanuel Renaut has an "eat local, build local" philosophy and he gets up early to forage for wild mushrooms and herbs. On the night I sample his food, there are plenty of porcini, truffles and other varieties peppered among the courses. Unlike a classic French menu, vegetables feature heavily including a delightful parsnip and beetroot gnocchi in a horseradish consommé. Of course, there’s sympathetic wine pairing and the service is perfect, closely supervised by Madame Renaut.

Toquicimes food festival

The festival includes a series of tastings and cooking demonstrations as well as an opportunity to try the local products. There are also keenly fought competitions for best Fondue, Pâté Pie, Mountain Soup and Chartreuse, the local liqueur. Amateurs compete alongside professionals, with celebrated chefs like Guillaume Gomez (presidential chef at the Elysee Palace), Franck Reynaud (renowned Franco-Swiss chef) and Philippe Rigollot (famous for his pastry). Various restaurants in town offer special Menus Toquisimes, all around €35, and stalls in the streets allow you to sample some of their dishes.

The next Toquicimes Festival takes place in October 2021, details: toquicimes.com