Chef Magazine for Thailand December/January | Page 47

cooked for a shorter time, resulting in a rich
broth that’s ready to be used as is. A stock,
because of its long cooking time, tends to
be more complex and three-dimensional
and is thus a foundation for various sauces.
small heavy skillet over medium-high heat
for 2 to 3 minutes. Place the onion cut side
down in one side of the skillet so that it is
not over direct heat and let it brown and
char black, about 30 minutes. This will add
Chicken jus is served with many meat dishes colour to the jus. Set aside.
in this book. If you use the carcasses from Transfer the browned bones, onion, and
roast chickens, you won’t need to brown carrot to a colander set over a bowl to
them as long. The jus can be used as a soup drain. (Or, if the vegetables are not well
base or as a stock for poaching; in that case, caramelised, leave them in the roasting
it does not need the final reduction.
pan.) Place the pan over medium heat and
heat for about 5 minutes to reduce the juices
Ingredients
until they cling to the bottom of the pan.
· · 6 pounds chicken bones, backs, and (Remove any vegetables as they brown.)
necks, and/or bones from whole
Drain off the fat and return the roasting
carcasses
pan to the heat. Add 1 cup water to the pan,
· · 2 tablespoons canola oil
scrape with a spatula to release the juices
· · 2 medium Spanish onions, peeled, 1 cut
on the bottom of the roasting pan, and let
into quarters and 1 cut crosswise in half
the liquid reduce by half.
(reserve half for another use)
· · 1 large carrot, peeled and cut into 4 Transfer the bones to a large stockpot and
add the pan juices. Add enough cold water
pieces
(about 3 quarts) to just cover the bones.
· · Kosher salt
· · 3 ounces (1 large) leek, roots trimmed, Any fat in the juices will rise to the top of
split lengthwise, rinsed well, and cut into the pot when the cold water is added: Use
a skimmer to remove and discard the fat.
2-inch pieces, or leek tops
Add the charred onion and a pinch of salt
· · 3 bay leaves
and place the pot over medium heat. It is
· · 12 black peppercorns
important to bring the liquid to a simmer
· · 1 thyme sprig
very slowly to bring up all the impurities.
· · 1 Italian parsley sprig
· · 1 head garlic, cut horizontally in half Keep skimming as the impurities rise to the
top of the pot. After the liquid has simmered
(reserve half for another use)
for about 15 minutes, add the leek, bay
Preheat the oven to 450°F. Place a large
leaves, peppercorns, thyme, parsley, and
roasting pan in the oven to preheat for
garlic. Continue to simmer for 23/4 hours.
about 10 minutes.
The jus will reduce to about an inch or two
Meanwhile, remove and discard the excess below the level of the bones; do not add
fat and any organs from the chicken bones. additional water to the pot.
If there is any skin left on the bones, it does
Line a strainer with cheesecloth and place
not need to be removed. Rinse the bones
over a large bowl. Removing the bones from
and dry them well with paper towels.
the pot or pouring out the contents will
Add the oil to the hot roasting pan, then cloud the jus. Instead, carefully ladle the
distribute the chicken bones in
jus out of the pot and pass it through the
a single layer. Roast the bones for 20 to strainer, tilting the pot as necessary to get
30 minutes, or until they are well browned all the jus. (There will be about 2 quarts.)
on the first side. Turn the chicken, add (At this point, the jus can be used for
the quartered onion and the carrot, and poaching or as a soup base or stock. Cool
continue to roast for another 20 to 30 in an ice bath, then refrigerate.)
cheesecloth and cool in an ice bath. (Store
the jus in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, or
freeze for longer storage.)
MAKES 1 QUART
Note:
After the jus has been removed from the
pot, the bones and other ingredients
remaining in the pot can be covered with
cold water again and simmered for another
2 hours. The resulting jus can be used for
soups, but the flavour and body will not be
the same as that of the first jus. If the jus will
be refrigerated for longer than 3 days, after
3 days, bring it back to a boil, cool it, and
return it to the refrigerator.
BRINE
It is a good idea to make this brine a day
ahead and refrigerate it. Don’t add meat
to warm brine and don’t leave it in the brine
longer than the specified time or it may
become too salty. This is enough for a rack
of port or one or two 2 ½-pound chickens.
Ingredients
· ·
· ·
· ·
· ·
· ·
· ·
· ·
1 gallon water
1 cup kosher salt
½ plus 2 tablespoons honey
12 bay leaves
½ cup garlic cloves, skin left on, smashed
2 tablespoons black peppercorns
About ½ ounce (3 large) rosemary
sprigs
· · About ½ ounce (1 large bunch) thyme
sprigs
· · About 2 ounces (1 large bunch) Italian
parsley sprigs
· · Grated zest and juice of 2 lemons (for
chicken only)
Combine all the ingredients in a large pot,
cover, and bring to a boil. Boil for 1 minute,
stirring to dissolve the salt. Remove from
the heat and cool completely before using.
To use for a rack of pork, refrigerate the
pork in the brine for 24 hours; rinse and dry
the pork before cooking. To use for 1 to 2
chickens, refrigerate the chicken in the brine
for 6 hours; rinse and dry the chicken before
minutes, or until the bones are well browned To finish the jus, pour it into a saucepan
cooking.
but not dried out.
and simmer it to reduce to 4 cups. Strain “Excerpted from Bouchon by Thomas Keller (Artisan
Meanwhile, brown the onion half: Heat a once more through a strainer lined with Books). Copyright © 2004.”
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