politicians and other terrorists
have messed it up.
For the most part, that is how
we passed the time out there,
such as discovering that the
Enlightened Bean Café in
Presidio is an enjoyable and fit
place to sit a spell and think
about it all.
And in Lajitas Brother John
was pretty disturbed by a
Houston slick developer’s goofy
show of wealth n’ waste in a
land of scarce comfort and
resources. Terlingua and Study
Butte are now way over populat-
ed thriving communities of
recluses who sport beards and
wear picturesque beat up old
cowboy hats. A similar tribe of
river runners and aging hippies
are tucked in amongst them.
There’s even a State of Texas
Public Health Clinic open ever
so often.
Why, the year I ran hair goats
on 16 sections leased from the
State, Terlingua was a ghost
town with only a beer joint and
a Saturday night dance hall still
left semi-alive. One evening ol’
Tooter, who ranched just to the
northwest of me, got crossways
because this hand was eyeing
Mrs. Lolita Tooter in an impo-
lite manner in between dances.
Tooter went out to his pickup,
got his hog leg from under the
seat, went back in and pistol
whipped the ol’ boy knocking
him to his knees.
One night I was down at
Lajitas, just a trading post and
ranch headquarters in those
times, and some Mexicans came
in with a pack string loaded with
wax. Ben and Abe weighed it
and paid the señors who traded
the cash back for beer. Pretty
soon they thought it would be all
right to shoot up the place so
they did. I hid under a bed and
Ben and Abe got their pistols out
continued from page 24
Point, Indiana, on March 3,
1934, he discouraged one of his
fellow escapees from stealing an
overcoat because “where we're
going, you won't be needing it.”
Rumor has it that some of the
Dillinger gang stayed at a
tourist court in Balmorhea
about the same time. Why
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and also shot holes in the ceiling, chance it might be mine some
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and the señors mounted up and day. The ruins of a Butterfield
lit out across the river. It was a Stage station spoke of a life
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wonderful country back then, unlivable today, and the 1920s
and my lies prove it.
through the 1940s Frijole Ranch
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My brother and I drove a house spoke of the last days of
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leave
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you. new
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and friends with
good many miles in wide open pretty much open-range cow-
with friends
and even
make new
on for
your
own time.
spaces that 10-day week and boying. There used to be wind-
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talked about if there were any mills. Now there are solar panels
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was
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decisions
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themselves
their healthcare
families. Now there’s
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there’s community
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a social Now
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with a HDTV that picked up
Brother John and I share
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networking
community
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Medical Center.
pro football games all week and what seems to me like a black
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We motored out from Alpine Texas…top of the Chihua with
huan
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one evening to look for the Desert, Big Bend, Rio Grande
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guy there with some friends lonesome Guada lupes…just
flick
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Marfa Lights he ever saw wuz in
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town. Brother John tried to show
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him what to look for, but I
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The hangar fell down.
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wall on New Mexico’s southern
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border with Texas. Broad leaf
trees and evergreens shaded the
Hwy 17 in Fort Davis • Open: Mon. - Sat. 9 to 5
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remains of what seemed to be
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shopping centers, fast food and
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crossed to the western bank of
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the Mississippi River. Brother
John hiked up and over the
plateau on the Tejas Trail to the
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Bowl and back down through
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Bear Canyon. I fiddled around
down on the flat checking out
the Devil’s Hall just on the
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D AvIS M OUNTAINS
N UT C OMPANY
would Dillinger have signed?
Possibly to make the FBI think
he had slipped into Mexico.
Unfortunately for him, he did-
n't. Instead, the man went back
home to Chicago where he was
killed by FBI agents on July 22.
The real story on Dillinger may
never be known.
What is known is that the
Big Bend of Texas continues to
be, as it has been for centuries,
endlessly fascinating.
Cenizo
Fourth Quarter 2010
27