Achrafieh
north and west sides: the glittering bright blue
Mediterranean.
The Corniche, the wide and busy promenade
That sea has, for centuries, brought so much
destruction to Beirut, from the ships bearing
invaders and their weapons—the Romans, the
along the waterfront, looks out onto the magical sea.
Egyptians, the Turks—centuries and millennia ago,
Now, in August, women in string bikinis are
to the A.D.-sixth-century tidal wave that wrecked
lounging at luxurious beach clubs just steps below
the city, all the way up to the American and Israeli
the Corniche, while others wear full head-to-toe
invasions of recent decades. And through it all,
hijabs and stroll along the sidewalk, jockeying for
those salty blue waters and sun-drenched beaches
space with hell-on-wheels skater dudes and
have also brought so much pleasure and washed
spandex-wearing cyclists and miniskirted young
away so much pain.
women and elderly street vendors selling sesame
Beirut is rushing back fast and strong now, as it
bread and fresh-squeezed pomegranate juice while,
always has when I’ve come back to visit. On its
down on the rocky shore, the Mediterranean waves
ruthless streets, now as ever before, drivers deal
roll and splash.
with the inadequate traffic lights by cutting each