@ aisteb1973
Summary of improved fitting :
1 . Difference between back and front armhole height is 2 rows . 2 . Difference between back and front shoulder line slope is 4 ( 4 , 4 , 4 , 6 , 6 , 8 ) rows . At the end back neck is lifted by 6 ( 6 , 6 , 6 , 8 , 8 , 10 ) rows or 2 ( 2 , 2 , 2 , 2,5 , 2,5 , 3 ) cm . 3 . Height of horizontal bust darts is 0 ( 12 , 12 , 12 , 12 , 12 , 24 ) rows or 0 ( 3,5 , 3,5 , 3,5 , 3,5 , 3,5 , 7 ) cm . Width of vertical dart is 8 sts or 4 cm for all sizes .
Sleeve ( make 2 )
With US4 ( 3,5 mm ) needles CO 47 ( 49 , 51 , 53 , 53 , 55 , 57 ) sts using a Long Tail Cast On method . Start to work in Basketweave st pattern following sleeve chart . Start with selvage st and st of respective size .
Then follow instructions for sleeve shaping , at the same time work 12 bottom rows with US4 ( 3,5 mm ) needles , next 12 rows with US5 ( 3,75 mm ) and then switch to main US6 ( 4,0 mm ) needles .
Sleeve shaping
Once you have worked 8 ( 8 , 8 , 6 , 6 , 4 , 4 ) rows , work increase row for sleeve shaping , 2 sts increased .
Rep increase row 13 ( 7 , 15 , 8 , 18 , 5 , 8 ) more times in every 10 th ( 8 th , 8 th , 6 th , 6 th , 4 th , 4 th ) row and – ( 7 , –, 8 , –, 14 , 11 ) times in every – ( 10 th , –, 8 th , –, 6 th , 6 th ) row . 28 ( 30 , 32 , 34 , 38 , 40 , 40 ) sts increased , there are 75 ( 79 , 83 , 87 , 91 , 95 , 97 ) sts now on needles .
Continue to work straight until sleeve length is 144 ( 144 , 138 , 126 , 120 , 114 , 108 ) rows or 12 ( 12 , 11,5 , 10,5 , 10 , 9,5 , 9 ) pattern reps . End with WS row .
Triangular sleeve cap
Work the next RS row to last 10 ( 11 , 12 , 12 , 13 , 13 , 14 ) sts , wrap the next st and turn , work WS row to last 10 ( 11 , 12 , 12 , 13 , 13 , 14 ) sts , wrap the next st and turn .
* In the next RS row work to 10 ( 11 , 12 , 12 , 13 , 13 , 14 ) sts before wrapped st , wrap the next st and turn , work WS row to 10 ( 11 , 12 , 12 , 13 , 13 , 14 ) sts before wrapped st , wrap next st and turn . Rep from * once more .
Work RS and WS alignment rows , working over all wrapped sts . While working alignment rows try to follow st pattern which is determined by short rows segments below . Transfer all sts to a spare circular needle . Leave long enough yarn tail for sewing in sleeves .
All images , text , and illustrations © Aistė Butkevičienė , 2016 9