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The Wild
Highlands
Author: Gregory Surgenor-Aldridge
(Other paddlers: Nick Aldridge & Paul Aldridge)
A few years (and a few Waterside Series) later,
the three of us (my brother Nick, my father Paul,
and I) decided to paddle in sea kayaks, from
Fort William to Inverness through Scotland’s
Great Glen, following the Great Glen Way.
From Gairlochy we paddled the north shore of Loch
Lochy, pied wagtails flitting among the trees, and
paused at the other end at South Laggan for a pit
stop. From there it was a short stretch on the canal
past the Well of Seven Heads and onto Loch Oich.
We pushed on to stop at Aberchalder campsite at the
northern end of the loch. Setting up the tent in the
evening, the weather was so calm Loch Oich reflected
the surrounding mountains and forest like a mirror.
The paddle started in glorious sunshine at the top
of Neptune’s Staircase on the Caledonian Canal.
The solemn presence of Ben Nevis dominated
the vista as we paddled along a coniferous tree-
lined canal to Gairlochy, on the shores of Loch
Lochy. Dotted around the informal campsite were
paddlers trying to cook dinner and evade the
infamous clouds of Scottish midges. The good
weather provided excellent calm, humid conditions
for the female biting midges at dusk and dawn! The early morning low mist that hung over the
highlands was burnt off as the sun shone on the
third day. We got on the water only to be held as
the swing road bridge opened to let through ‘Lord of
the Glen’, just one of numerous large cruising craft
we had to avoid on the water. At Kytra lock we were
welcomed by a richness of house martins nesting
under the eaves of the old lock keeper’s cottage.
We portaged several locks along the Caledonian
Canal and trolley wheels proved invaluable in
hauling the sea kayaks over them - particularly
over the flight of locks at Fort Augustus, that
brought us to the western shore of Loch Ness.
Looking out from Fort Augustus it is not possible to
see the eastern shore of Loch Ness. The loch is an
inland sea that took us two days to cross. We opted
to navigate via the south shore and as we paddled
out, the inky black water surrounded us. Loch Ness
is as deep as the surrounding mountains are high.
Freshwater burns flow down the
mountains to the loch and the forest
habitats allow European otter and
red deer to thrive in the less human
inhabited parts of the glen. After rest and
refuelling with haggis pie on the shore,
we made it to the campsite at Foyers. Battered by southwesterly winds we paddled
northwards staring down the loch as we crossed
to the point. Rain clouds had rolled in obscuring
the view, dark tempestuous waves threatened
capsize. Fear of crashing onto the rocks of the point
made for a nerve aching ride. We had to battle
against the waves before digging in our blades
for a final turn to carry us round the point.
The weather turned and on the fourth day a
moderate south westerly was blowing down the loch.
We were swiftly carried round the outcrop where
the River Foyers joins Loch Ness, and spotted nesting
oystercatchers on a gravel bank. After passing the
fish farm we arrived at the Dores Inn on the eastern
shore. Fuelled by hot chocolate, we braced for the
incoming inclement weather and launched back into
the loch to make an attempt to round Torpoint. Exhilarated, we made it to Lochend, laughing
with satisfaction. Gliding into the more sheltered
waters of Loch Dochfour a gentle drizzle set in. At
Dochgarroch we rejoined the canal for the last stretch
to Tomnahurich Bridge. The peaceful paddle was
disturbed only by a blazing forest fire, throwing heat
over the canal that left us stunned as we reached our
finishing point in Inverness. Paddling back on the River
Medway will be tame compared to the wild highlands.
After two years of planning, a day and a half car drive
from London, and a stopover in Stirling, we made
it to Fort William. The route was 60 miles of ship
canal and open water across the Scottish highlands. All along the shores of the canal stretches Caledonian
forest that provides habitat for lots of wildlife
including pine marten, red squirrels and numerous
species of bats including Daubenton’s bat also
known as the ‘water bat’. These bats fly low over
the water and use their hairy feet to trawl the
surface and catch insect prey. Daubenton’s feed
on small flies, but especially favour midges.
About five years ago, I read an article
about a kayak expedition across
Scotland. I was hooked by the idea of
adventuring through the Highlands
and combining two of my favourite
things – kayaking and wildlife.