Canadian World Traveller Fallr 2016 issue Canadian World Traveller Fall 2016 issue | Page 55
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( Fi s h e r m a n ' s B a s t i o n , B u d a p e s t )
It is indeed astounding how such a rich
vibrant culture as the Magyars heralding
some of the world’s most creative minds were
choked by the iron fist of Communism.
But I applaud the Hungarians for opening
this building which is indeed a testament that
shows how fragile democracy really is. I now
have a better idea on what compelled my
mom’s father, a young Charles Steiner with
his pregnant wife Irma and their five children
to just abandon their home in the middle of
the night in the dead of winter. The Steiner’s
took only their children along with my grandmother’s favourite hand crocheted doilies
she had sewn in between her winter coat lining as offerings for the toll men as they fled
on foot to Austria.
To change the tune we boarded the metro to
Vörösmarty Square for some pastries and a
tour of the nearby opera house. At the
Gerbeaud Café we sampled Gerbeaud and
sipped coffee while mom relayed how this
place was a social hotspot in the 19th century. The Hungarian pastry houses became a
cultural symbol of defiance as these landmarks even under Communism were never
allowed to close.
Inside the Hungarian State Opera House, the
gold glimmered. “Everything you see in here
that is shiny is gold,” notes our guide about
the Neo-Renaissance designed shrine to
classical music, which fittingly was opened by
Emperor Franz Joseph I and his much
adored wife, Elizabeth affectionately known
as Sisi.
Mom like many Hungarians has a close
affinity to this long-haired raven beauty. “She
loved the Hungarians just as much as they
loved her,” mom explains about the
Habsburg queen.
Viewing the famous stage, Maria proudly
whispers, “Back in Canada Nagymama
(grandmother) sang tenor and was part of
the Toronto Kodály Ensemble. She performed Aida at the O’Keefe Centre in 1964.”
That was news to me. But then again whenever we visited my grandparents, opera and
waltz tunes emerged from their hi-fi set at
some point during our visit. Nagymama was
also quick to play a Rhapsody or two on her
cherished upright piano.
Back at the ship we changed into our
Captain’s Welcome Dinner attire and waltzed
to the upper deck, cameras in tow. It was our
final evening by the Pearl of the Danube. The
city’s landmarks all aglow, our ship slowly
plied up the Danube toward Austria, the
country which embraced our family as they
sought safe passage.
A return to my maternal roots at this period
in my life has indeed revealed many things.
The river cruise became the vehicle for my
mom to share parts of her past I never knew
before. As our boat cruised up the Danube
away from Budapest I could feel my mother
and I becoming closer and closer as we now
shared all the new places on our river adventure. We could hardly wait to see what was in
store for us.
To Know:
The Enchanting Danube with Uniworld
Boutique River Cruise is a 7-night sail
which includes six shore excursions, signature lecture, all meals on board, complimentary wine with dinner, free bicycles and walking sticks, and all transfers.
In addition, Uniworld’s suite guests have
complimentary butler service, shoe shine
service, and free laundry service.
All guests enjoy amenities that include
L’Occitane bath products, free Internet
and Wi-Fi, a flat screen TV, plush
bathrobes, and monogrammed slippers.
For pricing and more Uniworld
Boutique River Cruise information visit:
www.uniworld.com
Uniworld