Canadian World Traveller Fallr 2016 issue Canadian World Traveller Fall 2016 issue | Page 30

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Cape Breton
Wo n d e r s a n d Wa n d e r s
Article & Photography by Steve Gillick

A

sense of wonderment greets visitors
when they first arrive in Cape
Breton, Nova Scotia. In Sydney, the
main city on the Island, the Big Céilidh
Fiddle seems to set the tone. At 17 meters
high this tribute to Cape Breton’s fiddle
music evokes a sense of fascination, culture, history, fun and social interaction, and
with the Atlantic Ocean as a backdrop, it
provides at least a glimpse of the entrancing scenery that paints the entire Island.
Exploring Cape Breton can start a mere 30
minutes from downtown Sydney with a
drive to the impressive and interactive
Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic
Park. Built in 1713 by the French, the
Fortress fell to the British before being
demolished in the 1760’s. One quarter of
the original Fortress has been reconstructed
and now provides visitors with opportunities to interact with the personalities of the
fortress, from soldiers to bakers, from fishermen and pub keepers and on to the
museums and the King’s Bastion.

Canadian World Traveller / Fall 2016

And beyond Sydney, the wonders only
increase. We followed the Ceilidh Trail
(pronounced “kay-lee”, meaning a social
get-together with singing, dancing and
conversation). This highway leads to Iona,
a small village perched on the shore of
Bras d’Or Lake where the Highland Village
Museum celebrates the Gaelic speaking
Scottish immigrants who settled in the area
in the mid 18th century.
Nearby, the Village of Mabou is a photographic gem with a beach, harbour and
lighthouse but also home to the Red Shoe
Pub, owned by the famous singing Rankin
Family, and a great place to drop by for the
Lobster and Avocado Salad Sandwich
along with a local craft beer.
After overnighting at the Glenora Inn,
home to Canada’s first Single Malt Whisky
Distillery, we drove to Margaree Harbour to
take in the rocky cliffs, the blue waters, the
soft sand and the scenery. And now, connecting with the Cabot Trail we set out for
the fishing village of Cheticamp where we
visited the gallery and studio of local artist
William Roach. The inspiration for his
wood carvings comes from the beautiful
surroundings and none reflects artistic
quality better than Cape Breton Highlands
National Park where on two successive
days we hiked both the Sky Line Trail and
the Middle Head Trail for their magnificent
views. And in between our hikes we
explored down small roads to photograph
and just gaze in awe at places such as Aspy

Bay, Neil’s Harbour, Black Brook Cove and
Ingonish.
On our last day, we arrived in the village of
Baddeck where we visited the Alexander
Graham Bell Historic Site Museum,
checked out the morning market, strolled
along the picturesque ocean front, and
then headed back to Sydney.
Cape Breton opportunities abound in the
delicious food, sun rises, sun sets, moon
rises, and the captivating scenery of fishing
boats, lobster nets, vivid green trees, blue
ocean waves and dramatic cliffs, with smiling conversations with locals all along the
way.
In the context of wonderment, it’s no wonder that the Island’s saying is “Your heart
will never leave”.

www.novascotia.com