Start with the Royal Palace, which rivals Versailles with its gilded rooms and frescoed ceilings. It’ s big--more than 2,000 rooms, with tons of luxurious tapestries, a king’ s ransom of chandeliers, priceless porcelain, and bronze decor covered in gold leaf. While these days the royal family lives in a mansion a few miles away, the palace is still used for formal state receptions, royal weddings, and tourists’ daydreams.
One highlight is the throne room, where red velvet walls, lions, and frescoes of Spanish scenes symbolize the monarchy in a Rococo riot. Another eye-stopper is the dining hall, where the king can entertain as many as 144 guests at a bowling lane – size table. The ceiling fresco depicts Christopher Columbus kneeling before Ferdinand and Isabel, presenting exotic souvenirs and his New World " friends " to the royal couple.
The next stop is Plaza Mayor--a stately, traffic-free chunk of 17th-century Spain. In early modern times, this was Madrid’ s main square. It is enclosed by three-story buildings with symmetrical windows, balconies, slate roofs, and steepled towers. Each side of the square is uniform, as if a grand palace were turned inside-out. This distinct“ look” pioneered by architect Juan de Herrera is found all over Madrid. Day or night, Plaza Mayor is a colorful place to enjoy an affordable cup of coffee or overpriced food.
An equestrian statue honors Philip III, who transformed an old marketplace here into a Baroque plaza in 1619. Bronze reliefs under the lampposts detail the Spanish history that played out upon this stage. The square once hosted bullfights and was the scene of generations of pre-Lent carnival gaiety. During the Inquisition, many suspected heretics were tried here and punished by being strangled or burned at the stake. Thankfully, those brutal events are long gone.
The last stop on our tour is the Prado Museum, which holds one of my favorite collections of paintings anywhere. With more than 3,000 canvases, including entire rooms of masterpieces by superstar painters, the museum gives an eye-pleasing overview of Spain ' s rich history, from its Golden Age through its slow fade.
The Prado is the place to enjoy the great Spanish painter Francisco de Goya. You can follow this complex man through the stages of his life--from dutiful court painter, to political rebel and scandal-maker, to the disillusioned genius of his“ black paintings.” It ' s also the home of Diego Velázquez’ s Las Meninas, considered by some to be the world’ s finest painting, period. In addition to Spanish works, you’ ll find paintings by Italian and Flemish masters, including
Hieronymus Bosch’ s fantastical Garden of Earthly Delights altarpiece.
As you walk back to Puerta del Sol, reflect on this bustling capital--home to more than four million people. Despite economic uncertainty, today’ s Madrid is energetic. Even the living-statue street performers have a twinkle in their eyes. After every trip to this exciting city, the impression I take home is that of a thriving people with an enduring culture.
© 2016 Rick Steves ' Europe. All rights reserved.
Rick Steves( www. ricksteves. com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick @ ricksteves. com.
15
Canadian World Traveller / Fall 2016