Start with the Royal Palace , which rivals Versailles with its gilded rooms and frescoed ceilings . It ’ s big--more than 2,000 rooms , with tons of luxurious tapestries , a king ’ s ransom of chandeliers , priceless porcelain , and bronze decor covered in gold leaf . While these days the royal family lives in a mansion a few miles away , the palace is still used for formal state receptions , royal weddings , and tourists ’ daydreams .
One highlight is the throne room , where red velvet walls , lions , and frescoes of Spanish scenes symbolize the monarchy in a Rococo riot . Another eye-stopper is the dining hall , where the king can entertain as many as 144 guests at a bowling lane – size table . The ceiling fresco depicts Christopher Columbus kneeling before Ferdinand and Isabel , presenting exotic souvenirs and his New World " friends " to the royal couple .
The next stop is Plaza Mayor--a stately , traffic-free chunk of 17th-century Spain . In early modern times , this was Madrid ’ s main square . It is enclosed by three-story buildings with symmetrical windows , balconies , slate roofs , and steepled towers . Each side of the square is uniform , as if a grand palace were turned inside-out . This distinct “ look ” pioneered by architect Juan de Herrera is found all over Madrid . Day or night , Plaza Mayor is a colorful place to enjoy an affordable cup of coffee or overpriced food .
An equestrian statue honors Philip III , who transformed an old marketplace here into a Baroque plaza in 1619 . Bronze reliefs under the lampposts detail the Spanish history that played out upon this stage . The square once hosted bullfights and was the scene of generations of pre-Lent carnival gaiety . During the Inquisition , many suspected heretics were tried here and punished by being strangled or burned at the stake . Thankfully , those brutal events are long gone .
The last stop on our tour is the Prado Museum , which holds one of my favorite collections of paintings anywhere . With more than 3,000 canvases , including entire rooms of masterpieces by superstar painters , the museum gives an eye-pleasing overview of Spain ' s rich history , from its Golden Age through its slow fade .
The Prado is the place to enjoy the great Spanish painter Francisco de Goya . You can follow this complex man through the stages of his life--from dutiful court painter , to political rebel and scandal-maker , to the disillusioned genius of his “ black paintings .” It ' s also the home of Diego Velázquez ’ s Las Meninas , considered by some to be the world ’ s finest painting , period . In addition to Spanish works , you ’ ll find paintings by Italian and Flemish masters , including
Hieronymus Bosch ’ s fantastical Garden of Earthly Delights altarpiece .
As you walk back to Puerta del Sol , reflect on this bustling capital--home to more than four million people . Despite economic uncertainty , today ’ s Madrid is energetic . Even the living-statue street performers have a twinkle in their eyes . After every trip to this exciting city , the impression I take home is that of a thriving people with an enduring culture .
© 2016 Rick Steves ' Europe . All rights reserved .
Rick Steves ( www . ricksteves . com ) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio . Email him at rick @ ricksteves . com .
15
Canadian World Traveller / Fall 2016