Afterward Justin became a bit philosophical about his role as a millennium-age chef ( under 30 ) as part of a growing group of younger chefs who talk about collegial and fraternal relationships with their peers , rather than the hyper-competitive atmosphere that chefs of another generation seem to celebrate . He noted that millennium chefs see their work in terms of passion (“ true passion is starting the day with your heart pumping and your mind ready to go , and then being unafraid to stand for 12 hours ”) and inspiration (“ I want to have a legacy of chefs working after me — when the students become masters , then I ’ ve done my part ”).
And as for Tex-Mex ? Justin spoke about the true influences on San Antonio ’ s food scene in the context of the year 2016 , as stemming from Latin and Central America as well as Asia . He suggested that Texans have a maverick mentality — they like to go their own way and be creative . And he also noted that while the King William District was hugely popular for restaurants and cultural activities , so was the neighbouring “ So Flo ” area ( South of Flores Street , also called Southtown ) where artists and art galleries proliferate along with a showcase of Indian , Thai , Japanese and Chilean restaurants , all specializing in locally sourced produce .
And the growing “ locavore ” movement , people looking for locally produced products , has infiltrated the craft beer industry . At the Alamo Brewing Company , James Hudec the Brewmaster suggested that we have a drink before the tour so we could relate to what he was about to show us . He mentioned that San Antonio used to be a mecca for brewing in the 19th century with over 30 independents , but the numbers kept declining , so much so that in 1933 when Prohibition ended , only two breweries remained : Pearl and Lone Star .
But the intense interest in local products and the Texas tradition of having a good time , has resulted in a new initiative . “ Wine drinkers have it easy . They take grapes and make wine and if it is goes bad they blame it on the grapes ”. Craft beer drinkers prefer an artisanal product , made under the watchful eyes of a passionate brewmaster . Mass -produced beers , those that offer ‘ dumbed down ’ tastes , just can ’ t offer the same product . And craft beers don ’ t have to be complicated . “ Like Texans , our beers are ‘ please , howdy , thank you , ma ’ am ’.
In San Antonio there is no better expression of the artisanal drive than in the Pearl Brewery Complex . This slogan of the district boasts “ Local Flavour Since 1883 ” based on the Brewery founded in that year . It would eventually became the largest brewery in the state of Texas , only to experience periods of growth and decline , and eventually closure in 2001 .
But in recent years the old buildings have returned to life . The Hotel Emma has become one of the hottest places to stay in the city , the Farmer ’ s Market is a draw for coffee drinkers and food shoppers , the restaurants are ‘ line-up only ’ and the San Antonio campus of the Culinary Institute of America ( CIA ) is smack in the middle of everything .
We experienced a cooking class with Chef Zach Garza who spoke about “ El Sueno ”— the dream that he defined as “ doing what I love every day and sharing my dream with the next generation ”. As executive Chef of Nao ( pronounced “ Now ”) Gastropub around the corner from the Culinary Institute where Zach is also an instructor , he echoed the artisanal mantra . He spoke about Pan-Latin ‘ inspired ’ dishes (“ Just because you put avocado and cumin on it , doesn ’ t make it Mexican ”), and the need to keep things clean and simple , with simple preparation . Zach suggested that we “ let the ingredients speak for themselves ” and then he prepared a beet salad that was sweet and crunchy with a bit of a zing , followed by Peruvian-inspired potato dish with hot peppers , purple olives and heirloom tomatoes on a drizzle of huancayo sauce .
When we weren ’ t touring San Antonio ’ s neighborhoods we were enjoying the amenities and the ambiance at La Cantera Resort and Spa , a five star property , where the Culinaria Festival took place . With the emphasis on local , sustainable produce
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and artisanal food and drink , the themed events included “ Back to Bubbles ” featuring wines and champagnes , and “ Tacos and Talk ” where Tequila and Mezcal drinks as well as cocktails were featured as a complement to modern takes on traditional Latin food ( e . g . Lemon Curry BBQ Shrimp Tacos ). And after the upscale “ Grand Tasting ” evening , a final “ Burgers , BBQ & Beer ” afternoon event emphasized the incredible variety of burger enhancements available , from blue cheese , to brisket , to onion rings , to mac and cheese .
And no trip to San Antonio would be complete without a visit to the iconic Riverwalk on the banks of the San Antonio River . Cafes , restaurant ’ s historic houses , stone arched bridges , colourful flowers , picturesque trees , souvenir shops , tourist boats , and museums contribute to the relaxed , ‘ leave your cares at home ’ atmosphere of the area .
After a dinner cruise up the river ( more eating and drinking !) we assembled in front of the historic 18th Century San Fernando Cathedral , to watch The Saga , an exciting and moving sound and visual experience that celebrates the history of the city , projected onto the façade of the Cathedral .
San Antonio , a city that literally started on a Mission , is still on a mission to stay true to the needs , trends and wants of locals and visitors alike . It ’ s no surprise that the 26 million who visit the city annually for the foods , drinks , locals , attractions , history , and festivals , find the ambiance of excitement and energy to be irresistible .
www . vistitsanantonio . com
American World Traveler / Fall 2016