CaLDRON February 2014 - Valentine's Day Special | Page 70

POINT BLANK

CRITIQUING THE

CRITICS
Chef Michael Swamy is dismissive about food bloggers who moonlight as critics, because
their culinary knowledge is often gleaned from the internet. He challenges them to stand
in a hot kitchen for 16 hours daily, to consistently churn out meal after meal, and then let
someone review their preparations. He doubts most blogger can face this ordeal for more
than a month!

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tensively about a chef ’s skill while
reviewing a restaurant, acknowledgike any craft, reaching a level
ing his role in the establishment’s
of perfection in the kitchen
success. Unfortunately, homegrown
takes years of hands-on experience.
Indian guides are mediocre and
Everyone considers themselves to
rarely give an educated assessment
be a good cook. But not every good
of a restaurant.Usually, this is becook is a great chef, and vice versa.
cause they lack critics who know
what it means to write a proper
Given that dining out is a rage these
critique.
days, chefs in India are finally getting their place in the limelight and
Who's a Food Critic
are getting mentioned in restaurant
Critics and food guides fall into two
reviews and food guides. Notable
categories – those who know food
food guides like those from Micheand write well; and others who write
lin, Gault-Millau, Zagat, American
well but have little understanding
Automobile Association, Fodor’s
about food or restaurant practices.
Restaurant Guide, Egon Ronay’s
Food critics from Michelin’s Guide
Food Guide, etc, often write exvisit restaurants incognito – some-

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times visiting the same restaurant
several times. They never ask for
a particular table, drop hints to
the waiter about their background
or ask to meet the chef. They eat,
drink, pay the bill and leave. Even
when invited by establishments for a
review, they remain objective critics,
unswayed by the attention lavished
on them at the restaurant. Sadly, one
can’t say the same about the legion
of food bloggers who masquerade
as food critics these days. This genre
gives the art of restaurant critiquing
a bad name. Some hospitality establishments dismiss them as people
out to score a free meal and few
have even started blacklisting some
bloggers!
CaLDRON February 2014