CaLDRON February 2014 - Valentine's Day Special | Page 41

FLAVORS OF INDIA - PALANPUR

O

n the way to Rani Ki Vav,
an architectural miracle
in Gujarat, one passes through the
small state of Palanpur. This place is
an important pilgrimage destination
for Jains since it houses the Motu
Derasar and Nanu Derasar; while
devout Hindus halt here to pay their
respects at the Lakhman Tekri Temple, Pataleshwar Mahadev Temple
and Ambaji Temple.The population
of the state largely comprises Jains
and Gujaratis with a smattering of
Marwaris, given its proximity to Rajasthan. And the thread that binds
these communities together in communal harmony, besides religious
tolerance, is food. Predominantly
vegetarian, the Palanpuri cuisine is
a confluence of the sweet-ish Gujarati fare and the spicier Rajasthani
preparation. Its striking aspect is its
simplicity in terms of preparation
and presentation. Usually, a meal is
served simply in various katoris on
a thali sans fanfare. An old saying
in Palanpur claims that if the food
tastes good it will speak for itself;
irrespective of whether it is served
on a gold thali or a dried leaf plate.

Palanpuri Dessert

Exploring Palanpuri Cuisine
Chef Jankidas Vaishnav, the Vegetarian Specialty Chef at Sofitel BKC
Mumbai is conversant with Palanpuri fare, since he is from Chittorgarh located close to Palanpur. He
recently helped Sofitel put together a
food festival focusing on this cuisine
at Tuskers, the hotel’s all-vegetarian
restaurant, which targets the Gujarati and Jain jewelry traders from
the diamond market in Bandra,
Mumbai. He informed that dairy
products always accompany every
Palanpuri meal, whether in the form
of smoked buttermilk, raita or kadi.
Every meal also has an assortment
of farsan like ‘Methi Bhajia’, ‘Vatana
Nu Ghugru’, ‘Moong Dal Kachori’ or
‘Dhokla’.

That said, Palanpuri food is not for
the faint hearted or weight-watchers,
since the food more often than not
fried in ghee or includes lot of sugar.
However, the food festival at Sofitel
tried to keep both these ingredients
to the minimum, since most Mumbaikars, irrespective of their origins,
are health conscious.

This was the only departure from
the otherwise rich cuisine and it
seems to have paid off for Sofitel.
“During food festivals, restaurants
try to cook and present food differently, but we stuck to the simple
taste and presentation of the Palanpuri fare. We also ensured it was
The kitchen is the place of pride in
light on the stomach since guests in
any Palanpuri home, and homeMumbai would drop in for a quick
owners first inspect the kitchen
For the food festival, he added
lunch and then head off to their
thoroughly before buying a house.
those items on the menu that is
offices – unlike in Palanpur where
This is where most women spend
often found at a regular meal in any afternoon siestas are the norm,”
a majority of their waking hours.
Palanpur household. It featured
Chef Jankidas noted.
Meals are a family affair where
simplistic creations like ‘Sev Taparents discuss children, youngsters
share secrets, while elders talk about matar Nu Shaak’ – a sweet and tangy Having sampled the food, we would
gravy comprising tomatoes and sev; agree that it was not snooze-induchappenings in the extended fami‘Saragami Nu Besan’ – a thick and
ing. Yet, it was exactly what a homely and community; while digging
creamy drumstick kadi, which was sick Gujarati gent would crave for
into their food. Everyone chips in
when he’s away from home. We can
the meal preparation, whether it is served with ‘Thepla’, ‘Bajri Bhakri’
definitely say that in this case, the
drying ‘Moong Dal Vadi’ in the sun, and ‘Gatte Nu Pulav’. Dessert consisted of ‘Badam Nu Sheeru’ and
food didn’t speak for itself; it sang a
pounding spices with a pestle or
‘Besan Nu Churma’ – delicacies that melody all the way! ■
making papad and pickles.
are regularly prepared by the women
Vinita Bhatia
of the Palanpuri state.
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