CaLDRON February 2014 - Valentine's Day Special | Page 22

REVIEWS - MUMBAI

The simplistically prepared Nadir Yakhni was yet another mild gravy, with none of that fieriness that Himanshu had cautioned us about.

Kaliya’ had fried chunks of cottage ly that the wazas can’t create anycheese in subtly-spiced gravy, but by thing else to top this culinary gem!
this time we were looking forward
So blissfully happy were we with
to the famed ‘Rista’ and ‘Gostaba’.
its taste that we decided to skip the
Not as Fiery as Expected
The saffron-based ‘Rista’ gravy with ‘Phirni’ served in earthen bowls,
A Wazwan meal usually has varieven though the aroma of saffron
mutton meatballs had a slightly
ous meat gravies that go best with
steamed rice, though one can equal- higher potency than the ones served and pistachio beckoned tantalizingly. We were content to relax in
ly savor it with some flatbreads. The earlier. However, the crowning
yoghurt-based ‘Noorani Gobi’ was glory of the meal was definitely the the elation wrought by the simple,
redolent with the fragrance of spices ‘Gostaba’. The secret to great gostaba homely Kashmiri food and conjure
images of picnicking on the green
lies in the texture of the meat that
like cumin, cardamom, clo ves and
glades of Kashmir while snowturmeric, while the cauliflower flo- is pounded with a wooden mallet,
while the flesh is still warm, until it capped mountains smiled down
rets simply melted in the mouth.
benignly at us. ■
reaches a paste-like consistency.
The simplistically prepared ‘Nadir
Vinita Bhatia
Yakhni’ was yet another mild gravy, The only way to savor these perfectly
with none of that fieriness that Chef cooked balls of mutton meatballs
Himanshu had cautioned us about. is to close your eyes and ears to
Rating: 4 out of 5
Price: INR 1700++ (meal for two)
By this time, we suspected that the everything around you and simply
focus on the flavors bursting in your
good chef has pulled a fast one on
Address: Lotus Café, JW Marriott
mouth. The Gostaba, incidentally,
us, since none of the dishes were
Mumbai, Juhu Tara Road, Vile Parle,
truly heavy on the stomach nor as
signals the end of a Wazwan meal
Mumbai - 400049
fiery as we anticipated. The ‘Chaman and it is easy to see why. It is unlike- Phones: 022-6693 3000
Kashmiri origins were unclear.
Could this finally be a herald of
spicier things to come? Well, no.

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CaLDRON February 2014