start walking across a gently undulating
pasture that, at first glance, looks
like typical southern Saskatchewan
rangeland. However, it’s anything but.
Without warning, the land suddenly
drops away and we gaze over an
enchanting mass of weathered buttes,
hoodoos topped with protective
capstones, strange pillar formations and
rippled hillsides.
Making our way onto the valley
floor, we enter a different world. We no
longer see the surrounding farmland,
but instead become immersed in an
otherworldly wonderland. Erosion
has turned mudrock into rills, pillars
and crumbly, popcorn-like sediment.
Huge spherical concretions,
sculpted sandstone and
hoodoos-in-the-making add
to the surreal landscape.
The Avonlea Badlands are
on private land, so the only
way to visit is via guided tours
arranged by the Avonlea
Heritage Museum. The
museum operates regular
daytime tours, as well as
evening and night tours
geared to photographers.
Valley of 1,000 Devils
To find the granddaddy of
badlands, we head to the East
Block of Grasslands National Park,
one of few places in Saskatchewan not
covered by glaciers in th e last ice age.
The gravel road turns into a narrow
track across the prairie, and almost
immediately a vista opens up over the
vast Killdeer Badlands.
The trail continues along the valley
rim, ending at a point jutting into the
valley, where we enjoy the breathtaking
scene while sitting in Parks Canada’s
iconic red chairs. It’s truly a million-
dollar view.
Below, we catch glimpses of mule
deer wandering among the scattered
buttes and whimsically eroded
formations. Colours range from muddy
browns to shades of red, gold and even
bright white. One area, known as the
Valley of 1,000 Devils, is a jumble of
buttes and deep gullies, perfect hiding
spots for wildlife. Millions of years of
The
Essentials
GETTING THERE
For Castle Butte, drive
south of Bengough on
Highway 34 and follow
the signs west along the
Big Muddy Valley
To reach the Avonlea
Badlands, go southeast
of Moose Jaw on
Highways 39 and 339
An Avonlea hoodoo; Killdeer Badlands (top)
geologic history are exposed. It was in
these fossil-rich badlands that western
Canada’s first dinosaur bones were
discovered in 1874.
The area is tailor-made for leisurely
hiking and backcountry camping.
Surprises are not only around every
corner, but change with the seasons
and weather. During a dry spell, even
cacti struggle amid the austere beauty.
Add a healthy dose of rain and the land
wondrously transforms with a carpet of
grass and wildflowers.
Standing on our “million-dollar”
perch, we have unobstructed views
of both east and west, where the low
sun bathes warm tones across the wild
land, bringing it to life. As we watch the
enchanting scene from the comfort of
our red chairs, we can’t help but think
that badlands ain’t so bad after all.
To see Grasslands
National Park (East
Block), head south of
the village of Wood
Mountain on Highway 18
toward the visitor centre
WHERE TO STAY
In Grasslands National
Park, reserve a
site at Rock Creek
Campground. It was
recently upgraded with
electrical sites, oTENTiks
(a tent/cabin hybrid)
and tepees for rent
THINGS TO DO
For guided Big Muddy
trips, check out tours
run by the town of
Coronach
Experience the life of
early 20th-century
homesteaders at the
Avonlea Heritage
Museum, housed in a
former CNR station
45