Showtime at Castle Butte secluded coulees proved irresistible to cattle rustlers and horse thieves who moved back and forth across the border to escape the law . Butch Cassidy and the Wild Bunch established Big Muddy as Station No . 1 on the infamous Outlaw Trail that stretched all the way to northern Mexico .
We come across badlands along various roads in the region where we almost expect to see Butch and the boys riding out of some secluded gulch .
The highlight — and most accessible area — is Castle Butte , about halfway between Bengough and Big Beaver . The massive 60-metre-high landmark rises alone from the valley floor , with a backdrop of fairy-tale-like formations along neighbouring slopes . Walking around the butte , we check out ridges , caves and coloured layers .
Sides of the butte seem to be dripping , as if icing on a gigantic chocolate cake had been left in the sun . Big Muddy may be an odd name , yet it ’ s a fitting description . Come here after a rain and the wet clay looks and feels like gooey melted chocolate .
ROAD TRIP
Breaking Badlands
Exploring the good , the rad and the lovely in Saskatchewan ’ s badlands
TexT & PhoTos By Arlene And roBin KArPAn
The road to Avonlea To see Saskatchewan ’ s most surprising but least-known badlands , we take the road to Avonlea , southeast of Moose Jaw . A short drive outside town , we »
Avonlea Badlands driving TowArds Castle Butte , we find the great monolith looming ahead in the pre-dawn light . We ’ re in luck : The sky is clear , so we pull out our lawn chairs , relax and wait for the show , which doesn ’ t take long . In summer , the sun clears the horizon at the lowest part of the broad Big Muddy Valley , and immediately shines up at the butte , flooding it in a dazzling scarlet glow . The transformation is nothing short of magical . Best of all , we have one of Saskatchewan ’ s most stunning spectacles all to ourselves .
Badlands are among Canada ’ s most compelling landscapes — solitary buttes standing in defiance of centuries of erosion , stone-capped hoodoos , sage and cactus seeking moist cracks in sun-baked soil , and weather-beaten formations mimicking abstract art . Fortunately , many of the country ’ s baddest badlands are right here in Saskatchewan .
The Big Muddy Badlands combine striking scenery with a colourful history . Only a stone ’ s throw from the Canada-U . S . border , the labyrinth of
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