food/drink
HANG FIRE SMOKEHOUSE @ PORTERS ****
Harlech Court, Cardiff. 029 2125 0666 With the summer approaching its end this month, it’s starting to feel like there isn’t much time left for the BBQ. Thankfully, you can get a taste of the American barbeque year round at Porters bar in Cardiff. You’d be spoiled for choice any day of the week at Porters, which contains a stage for live music and comedy, a cinema and a car park turned beer garden (complete with its own miniature golf course). On Sundays, however, it offers something more. Hang Fire Smokehouse was created by Samantha and Shauna after a six-month BBQ-themed trip around the States. Just two days after returning to Wales, Samantha and Shauna’s new smoker arrived and the duo set out to create an American barbeque for a British pallet. With three different smoke-roasted meats (and a vegetarian halloumi burger) on offer we went for all of them. On our plates was a soft and sweet pulled pork, 18-hour hickory smoked beef brisket, and deliciously spicy ‘Hot Links’. These half-pork/half-beef sausages were by far our favourite as the smoked meat was balanced perfectly with a spicy hint. Did I also mention Hang Fire Smokehouse is the only place in the UK you can get these tasty links, created by artisan charcuterie company Charcuterie Ltd? Accompanying these meats was a selection of sides such as the pallet-cleansing Texas’slaw and pickles (from Inner City Pickles), a creamy mac and cheese and a selection of homemade sauces – including a ‘Texas Espresso BBQ Sauce’ which give a subtle coffee kick to a summer classic. New to Porters, Hang Fire Smokehouse has attracted guests of all ages and backgrounds by providing good, well-priced food and the welcoming community feel of an all-American BBQ. HEATHER ARNOLD
THE GUTSY GOOSE ****
145 Crwys Road, Cardiff. 029 2022 8523 / www.thegutsygoose.co.uk Accepting an offer to accompany me to this three-month-old Cathays restaurant, my friend wonders: “Is the name supposed to sound like The Potted Pig?” This hadn’t previously occurred to me. Comparisons can be made: The Gutsy Goose leans towards timeless British culinary ideas, served with modern flair, and its name references one of its starters, goose liver pate. It is, however, substantially cheaper (most expensive main course is £13) and you can probably walk in and get a table – although nearly all are occupied at 8pm on a Wednesday. The Gutsy Goose’s premises were once owned by Cafe Calcio, where people excited by Catatonia having hit singles ate breakfast in the late 90s. The decor is much less shouty and more serious these days; waiting staff are spot-on in their attentiveness, and we’re recommended a keenly spicy bottle of 2008 Barolo. After a deep-fried goats’ cheese amuse bouche, our starters – risotto balls with chilli jam for him, cauliflower soup with parmesan for me – are sturdy fare, and both richer and creamier than you might expect. My friend gets a chicken, gammon and mushroom pie, one of today’s specials, for his main course; I get pork belly, on a board amidst blobs of mash and baby leeks and asparagus. While having little truck with board-as-plate fashion, it’s probably a losing battle – suffice to say, then, that it’s a deep and unctuous piece of tum which came with an addictive cider jus. The pie’s subtle earthiness, pleasing presentation and slightly under-creamed mash is mentioned by my pal, who then has to dash, leaving me eating a perfectly decent white chocolate Eton Mess on my own and probably looking like I’ve just been dumped. A meal for two plus wine weighed in very reasonably, at just under £50. NOEL GARDNER
Mermaid Quay, Cardiff Bay. 029 2049 5050 / www.yakitori1.co.uk The takeover of the Natwest Bank office in Mermaid Quay has been nothing less than a transformation. Ultra-modern seating, glass panelling in shades of bold red and grey walls with industrial lighting creates a stylised urban feel to the eating area which is now Yakatori. Yakatori (meaning fried chicken) is the latest restaurant to arrive in Cardiff Bay. The sushi, sashimi and noodle bar is brought to Cardiff by husband and wife team Meng and Cheryl Yap, whose background stems from supplying goods to a global supermarket. Having successfully opened a month ago, the interesting and varied menu lends itself to the vibrant scene. A selection of dishes was suggested so we dived into scallops with soy, sesame and crispy ginger, tempura prawn maki, cucumber and chicken teriyaki, salmon and avocado with crab stick, goma wakame, seaweed and tobiko. This was all followed by a yaki soba, wok-fried noodles with chicken, tiger prawns, beansprouts, mixed vegetables, red and green peppers, spring onions topped with fried shallots. It sounds a lot for two people and it was – we wouldn’t normally have this much – but as we were sampling it seemed appropriate and we were advised! Not a smidge of the evil MSG in sight, all freshly prepared to order in the open kitchen and if you have aversion to prawns but fancy yaki soba, they will happily oblige. Meng is very keen to keep customers happy and provide an enjoyable evening. I couldn’t make this at home and it was a treat and thoroughly delicious. ANTONIA LEVAY
BUZZ 36
YAKATORI ****