food/drink
URBAN TAP HOUSE *****
Quay Street, Cardiff. 029 2039 9557 / www.urbantaphouse.co.uk
That’s right: a five-star review for a place which isn’t a restaurant, and in fact only
serves burgers. Urban Tap House is hereby awarded this because since opening in
late September, it has approached the task of ‘being a bar’ with an unprecedented
level of verve, knowledge and respect for its customers.
In the last couple of years, Cardiff’s bar scene has opened up to beer drinkers who
actually care about what they’re drinking. Fire Island was arguably the city’s most
ambitious venture, but failed to iron out its flaws before going into receivership in
July. Youthful, lauded Newport brewery Tiny Rebel purchased the building, and set
about making Urban Tap House a beer madman’s dreams.
UTH’s bar manager Chris Rowlands attempt to consistently keep around 100 beers
on sale, ranging from Tiny Rebel’s own brews to unfiltered lagers, fruity Belgian
things and Denmark’s remortgagingly expensive Mikkeller range. Today, I have
a pint of Siren Näcken, a 6.4% British craft beer – hop-loaded, but fearfully easy
to drink. My pal chooses Red Willow’s Witless (4.4%) – also on tap, British and a
wheat ale with sweet fruit overtones. They both stand testament to the innovation
in UK brewing at present.
Food undeniably plays a bit part in UTH’s image, so it’s cheering that their burgers
(£7.50 each) aren’t just paper towels for the stomach, but are made with care and
some inventiveness. My ‘Pork, Pork & Pork’ burger is so named because it’s made
from minced pork, black pudding and bacon; this sounds wilfully indulgent and a
bit internet meme-y, but actually works a treat, as does my colleague’s chicken and
chorizo patty with chilli jam and sweet peppers. Skin-on fries, onion rings and – the
jewel in the arterial crown – deep-fried gherkins are offered as sides. Urban Tap House
has been a roaring success in its first few weeks, but if you are remotely curious about
craft beer or beer craft, you need it more than it needs you. NOEL GARDNER
THE PIER HOTEL & CAFE BAR ****
pic: RICK
Esplanade, Penarth. 029 2032 9549 / www.thepierhotelandcafebar.co.uk
Positioned on the esplanade in Penarth seafront, this hotel come restaurant has
had several incarnations over a few years, but has now settled into its own. It’s
actually a little gem of a place, as well as a hotel offering breakfasts; teas are also
served up, there’s a decent tapas menu and an interesting evening menu.
We popped in on the off-chance on a gorgeous autumn day and sat outside with
a couple of cold beers and decided to have lunch. A selection of tapas and tit bits
were in the offering: olive oils with bread, tomato and basil plus tuna and anchovy
to homemade meatballs; for a more substantial palate, tagliatelle al salmone or
tuna nicoise salad; chunkier mains like Angus beefburger served with mozzarella,
salad and fries.
We chose a duo of luxury fishcakes served with parsley sauce, mushy peas
and seasoned fries, and scampi with peas and fries. Conservative choices, but
nonetheless most satisfying. The evening menu has a general Mediterranean feel
to it: calamari, beef carpaccio, sea bass, monkfish and other tempting delights, as
well as a well-thought-out dessert selection.
Overall, an ideal location, varied choices and a good wine list as well as various
offers through the week, a steak and wine evening makes The Pier Hotel a perfect
place for a romantic liaison, if you’re lucky enough to have one. ANTONIA LEVAY
WASHINGTON TEA ****
1-3 Washington Buildings, Penarth. Info: 029 2070 9158 / www.waterlootea.com
I will happily admit I am a big fan of the Waterloo Gardens Teahouse in Penylan.
The only thing I don’t like about it is that it’s just (sorry to sound hipster) too
popular and the cosy cafe just doesn’t have enough room to cater. That’s why I
was so happy to hear about their new venture Washington Tea in Penarth.
The new teahouse is thankfully much bigger, and the space certainly came in
useful when I attended their fortnightly Food and Tea night, which was sold out.
The night consists of a five-course meal with a complimentary tea in between
each dish. We were treated to an organic beetroot and ginger soup to start, a
beautiful bright red way to begin the meal with a sharp taste and comforting
ginger undertones. A dish of smoked trout and mackerel terrine followed, matched
perfectly with a salty and fresh caper salsa.
Teas varied from a sweet fresh mint Moroccan blend to a tangy and fragrant
sparkling hibiscus.
Though there were many more highlights, it was the dessert of Braeburn and
almond tart that stole the show: soft, sweet and perfectly balanced. After his first
bite my partner looked up to me and said, “I am never eating anything else ever
again.”
Perhaps one of the best parts of the meal was the group effort that went into it. Not
only had the people at Washington Tea picked our great food, but they had vegetables
sourced from those at Cardiff’s Riverside Market, fish from Snowden & Co and
alcohol picked out by The Bottle Shop in Roath. All local, all fresh and all chosen
with great thought. This collaborative effort is far more than a gimmick and it really
pays off when you sit down for meal at Washington Tea. HEATHER ARNOLD
BUZZ 36