travel
pic: NICOLE CALABRIA
BUZZ
RECOMMENDS
pic: SEBASTIAN DOORIS
DUBLIN
With the green and Guinness-filled celebrations of
St Patrick’s Day around the corner, Nicole Calabria
explores the streets of the Irish capital.
A
round the world Saint Patrick’s Day is
observed as a celebration of everything
Irish, with revellers donning green and
sporting jaunty shamrock-covered hats
as far afield as Australia. I admit to putting on
my best (or worst) Irish accent each year for the
occasion.
The day began locally as a religious holiday,
honouring the island’s beloved patron saint. Saint
Patrick is credited with bringing Christianity to
Ireland, and it’s believed that Mar 17
is the anniversary of his death. In
recent decades the day has also
become an iconic celebration
of Irish culture, and where
better to raise a pint (or
three) to Paddy than in
Ireland itself?
I recently returned from
a visit to Dublin, and
immediately wanted to
go back to the colourful
capital. The city has a
rich literary history, one that
intermingles in true Irish fashion
with its pub scene. Many of Ireland’s
most famous minds had haunts here, spending
hours seeking inspiration over a pint.
McDaids in Harry Street is one such institution.
Established in 1779, it still provides many dimly
lit corners and low-slung stools for folks to pull in
close and share a laugh over a Guinness. The pub
gained its reputation as a drinking hole for Ireland’s
literati in the 1930s, as it attracted journalists and
provided a base for many of the country’s most
talented writers. Irish poet, novelist and playwright
Brendan Behan famously declared himself “a drinker
with a writing problem”, often putting pen to paper
in McDaids.
Drinks aside, Dublin has countless cobblestoned
streets to explore, with brightly coloured buildings
dotted alongside historic landmarks. Trinity College,
situated in the heart of the city, was established
in the late 1500s and still serves as Ireland’s top
educational institution. It’s worth paying to take
a tour of the school, which ends in the most
amazing library you’re ever likely to see.
I have never breathed in the smell
of old pages so gloriously, while
surrounded from floor to ceiling by
ancient books.
Around the corner from the
College’s entrance, Grafton
Street is a must if you enjoy
a spot of shopping, but you’ll
also find an array of quality
cuisine and cute little cafes in
the surrounding alleyways. It’s
worth wandering until you find
something that appeals to those
hunger pangs, but don’t just stop at
the nearest place and think ‘that’ll do,’ as there are
a plethora of tourist traps amidst the gastronomic
gems.
And if you’re heading to Ireland for St Patrick’s Day,
Dublin has a four-day festival from Fri 14 to Mon
17 Mar. Highlights include a parade, an Irish Craft
Beer and Food Market, as well as ‘Greening The City’,
where new and historic buildings across Dublin
creatively embrace the traditionally Irish hue.
“The city has a
rich literary history,
one that intermingles
in true Irish fashion
with its pub scene.”
BUZZ 48
WHERE TO DRINK:
Davy Byrnes was a favourite drinking spot
for James Joyce, and this bar was made
famous in the epic novel Ulysses. Kehoe’s
is a large and vibrant traditional pub, also
favoured by literary minds of the 1930s.
Finally, The Stags Head in Dame Court is
a warm old Victorian bar popular with locals.
WHERE TO EAT:
If you’re staying in the colourful (but
expensive) ‘Temple Bar’ area, Gallagher’s
Boxty House showcases some delicious
Irish cuisine. It’s also worth venturing out of
the city centre during the day, with Declan’s
Deli on Bolton Street serving some of
the best takeaway soup, wraps and
sandwiches you’ll find.
WHAT TO DO
If you miss Dublin’s St Patrick’s Day festival,
don’t despair, there is still plenty to explore.
The Old Jameson Distillery, founded in
1780, is definitely worth a visit, and make
sure to see The Old Library at Trinity
College at least once in your life; it costs €9
and also houses the Book Of Kells and the
original iconic Irish harp.
Flights & Accomodation:
There are a number of hostels ranging
from £13-£30 throughout the city
– such as Jacob’s Inn. March is a
popular month due to St Patrick Day
celebrations, with many places are
already booked out, so be prepared to
stay further afield or pay more during the
festival. It costs £133 for a return to fly to
Dublin direct from Cardiff during the four
day event, or as little as £60 return at
other times in March.