food/drink
THE ROBIN HOOD ***
16 Severn Grove, Pontcanna, Cardiff. 029 2037 8829 / www.robinhoodbar.co.uk
On a particularly pleasant Wednesday evening we ventured to The Robin Hood; I say
ventured, as it has been a den of iniquity in the past, but that was a while ago and
it’s now had a spruce up and is hosting regular music evenings – it’s a lovely place.
Every Wednesday is now Tapas Night, with jazz on the last Wednesday of the
month. While there was no jazz tonight, the tapas menu looked alluring. As we
were feeling a bit more than peckish we went for three dishes each, and shared
obviously! From the list we had grilled halloumi with chive and herbs, calamari
with garlic mayo, garlic prawns, patatas bravas with chorizo, chicken and prawn
risotto, and spicy meatballs in tomato sauce with bread and a bottle of sauvignon
blanc, all for around £12-£15 per head. Tapas are £3.50 each or six dishes for £16.
Surprisingly, not the worst tapas I’ve had, and a lot better than some ‘authentic’
tapas bars. Great portions, good selection and all reasonable in price.
Home-cooked meals and a more organic approach to cooking has given it a new
lease of life; The Robin Hood is a local pub for local people and all the better for it.
With a great beer garden round the back, regular music nights and a friendly crowd,
you could do a lot worse. It’s a perfect after-work haunt and a meeting place at the
weekends. Try the tapas on a jazz night – great atmosphere and some brilliant bands
(Bella And The Bluebells being a personal favourite). ANTONIA LEVAY
RESTAURANT JAMES SOMMERIN ****
The Esplanade, Penarth.
029 2070 6559 / www.jamessommerinrestaurant.co.uk
After successfully steering the Crown at Whitebrook in Monmouth for many years,
Michelin award-winning chef James Sommerin has embarked on his first solo
venture and opened up a restaurant in Penarth. His cooking style is influenced
mainly by his grandmother, who imparted love and wisdom into the young James
and fuelled his lifelong passion for food. The concept is either a five or sevencourse tasting menu with one or two dishes altering weekly, available for £55 and
£75 respectively. A special 10-course tasting menu is available, which is a surprise
selection of dishes created by James and his team.
The seasonal offerings on this occasion are combined like so: braised pig’s head,
celeriac, apple and star anise; monkfish with seaweed, grilled leek, curry and
puffed grains; duck with lavender, beetroot, soy sauce and cumin; and for desserts,
strawberry, lime, chocolate and vanilla, and banana, stout, toffee and macadamia
nut. Teamed with two splendid bottles of Sancerre, the experience was certainly
interesting.
There is no denying the quality and excellence of James’ work: chefs, after all, are
the new rock stars, and the attention to detail is exceptional. The problem for me is
there was little or no atmosphere, and the restaurant itself was quite clinical in its
design. The restaurant is in a great location, only a stone’s throw from the sea, but
you need to stretch to see the view out of the window. The bench seating across the
whole front of the restaurant is also prohibitive. I understand food is paramount, but
when venturing somewhere new and forking out a substantial amount of money, the
whole experience should be joyous and without fault.
With rooms opening above the restaurant very soon and chef’s table evenings a
regular and popular event, James Sommerin is sure to do remarkably well. It’s just a
shame the ambience doesn’t live up to the food, hence the four stars.
ANTONIA LEVAY
THE BOMBAY CAFE ***
West Bute St, Cardiff Bay.
029 2048 1148 / www.facebook.com/thebombaycafe100
Walking into the Bombay Cafe in Cardiff Bay did feel like walking into an expat’s
cafe in Mumbai – all mint green walls and hand drawn portraits of famous Indian
faces. It was pretty quiet when we turned up, but a short chat with the owner soon
established that this is a bustling place for a different lunch.
To start I went for selection of starters with the Bombay City snacks (£3.50) – which
includes a fish cake, aloo chap, onion bhajee and Punjabi samosa. All four were tasty
morsels, and surprisingly filling, but the slightly spicy onion bhaji was the winner.
My partner went for the Bombay duck (£2.95) – which isn’t actually duck at all, but
dried fish. Considered a delicacy in India the spicy dish wasn’t quite to my liking (I
have a complicated past with dried fish) but my partner loved it.
For mains we both went for a Thali – a variety of dishes served on a
compartmentalised steel tray. I went for the soft, succulent and downright delicious
slow cooked mutton (£9.50) while my partner got the Bengal fish curry (£8.95),
which had a kick to it but wisely let the fish’s natural flavours come through. These
were both served with Shabzi Bhajee vegetables (sweet and spicy vegtables, albeit
with a bitter aftertaste courtesy of some eggplant), crunchy tomato and onion salad
Kachumbe and a tasty tarka dahl which had a lovely, almost nutty, depth to it.
The Bombay Cafe has a great feel to it – the food is good and it’s nice to be eat out
somewhere with flavoursome food that isn’t too rich or heavy. This is the ideal spot
for an alternative lunch, and a great choice if you’re looking for a lighter dinner
option. HEATHER ARNOLD