travel
pic: SAM WHITFIELD
BUZZ
RECOMMENDS
pic: SAM WHITFIELD
FLAT HOLM ISLAND
Cardiff writer Mab Jones sets sail into the Bristol
Channel and lands on the shores of Flat Holm Island.
A
s someone born and bred in Cardiff
there are too many things I haven’t seen,
and places I haven’t visited, perhaps
because it always seemed as if I would
go there ‘one day’. Thirty or so years later and I still
hadn’t been to Flat Holm Island, which is just five
miles across from Cardiff and Barry. So when the
opportunity arose to be sailed over to the island I
took it without hesitation, remembering the lovely
boats from childhood which took people over,
and dressing myself as if I was about
to embark upon a trip in a pleasure
steamer.
While lovely boats do still
exist to take visitors –
including one that seats up
to 100 people – because
this was a small trip of
just a few people I was
transported in a rubberrimmed speed boat, which
sped across the water like a
bullet, making it across in just
15 minutes.
The boat’s captain, James, played
Cat Stevens as we zoomed. I arrived
exhilarated, and slightly damp (this stretch of water
has the second highest tidal range in the world, after
all), but was met by a very friendly steward called
Stewart, and two lovely Flat Holm Society volunteers,
Bob and Linda. We were whisked to the farmhouse
for tea, and then for a tour of the island.
The history of Flat Holm is an interesting one. For
some reason it and the nearby island of Steep Holm
have been divvied up, without any argument, between
Wales and England.
The first recorded Welsh saint, Cadoc, was a visitor
here. It has been used as a fortress, as the site of a
cholera hospital, and also as a base for WWII gun
batteries, the latter two of which you can see.
The tunnels and trenches that have been made
during times of war are still in place, and I was taken
through these at the urging of Linda; a regular and
very passionate pilgrim to the island.
Interestingly, the island is divided into
managed and unmanaged halves. You can
stroll in the former part then take a
walk, literally, on the wild side.
The gull colony is one of the
largest in Wales, and I was
intrigued to learn from my guides
that very often they bring back
prizes from Cardiff’s rubbish
tips. Once, they spotted a pair of
false teeth sitting in a nest.
Other animal inhabitants
include shelduck, slow worms,
rabbits, soay sheep (the curlyhorned kind, very cool to see), and
a peregrine falcon couple, the arrow-like
female of which I witnessed darting and shooting
about. There are also wild peonies and wild leek,
which is only found in five places in the UK. As a Site
Of Special Scientific Interest, the range and rarity of
plant here is impressive.
Even for those without a scientific inclination the
isolated beauty, rich wildlife, and breath-taking
views, all make Flat Holm well worth a visit.
“the isolated
beauty, rich
wildlife, and
breathtaking
views...”
BUZZ 48
WHERE TO DRINK:
The lovely island has its own pub in the form
of The Gull And Leek (which is also Wales’
most southerly pub). It has a selection of
local beers, ales and wines and I was also
interested to learn that it holds readings
there.
WHAT TO SEE:
The island also homes a solar-powered
lighthouse, having stood there for well over
200 years it is now powered by a few tiny,
but extremely powerful, bulbs.
For some slightly more chilling history
have a look at the grade II listed Cholera
Hospital. In 1883 the island was used as
a place to ‘isolate’ cholera patient from the
mainland. The hospital building still stands,
steeped in its haunting past.
WHAT TO DO
There’s plenty to do and see on Flat Holm
Island, with its history and wondrous wildlife,
but if you want to go that little bit further
there are also opportunities to volunteer and
learn more about the island’s history and
conservation.
Flights & Accomodation:
You can sail to Flat Holm from both
Cardiff and Weston-super-Mare with
MW Marine for just £24 adult/£12 child
(though there is also a landing fee of £5
that’s paid directly to the island staff).
The island is easy enough to get to
for a lovely day trip, but if you feel like
extending your stay there is a variety of
accommodation on the island, with dorm
beds starting from £19 at Flat Holm
Farmhouse and camping available
for just £8 for an adult. For something
fancier you can make yourself at home
in the grade II listed Fog Horn Cottage.
The three-bed, self-catered cottage
benefits from some lovely views and a
stone BBQ.