So how does the barbecue scene shape up on the issue of meat? On the one hand there is a huge amount of pride people in the UK barbecue scene have in buying and promoting meat that they know the source and provenance of, and that it is British. But the nature of barbecue means there is a demand out there for large amounts of meat at the most reasonable price, this price pressure likely forces some producers to be less sustainable than they could be. Outside the price trap, there is also another huge exception which divides the UK barbecue scene, the ‘b’ word, yes, brisket.
You’re taking the brisket, right? In the interviews I conducted in summer 2017 the word ‘brisket’ was mentioned more times than the words ‘cow’ and ‘beef’ combined, let alone the words ‘chicken’, ‘pork’ and ‘pig’. One of the most divisive issues it appears in the UK barbecue scene is USDA vs UK. I will let you make up your own mind on the aesthetic qualities of either but the evidence (in lieu of a through-life sustainability assessment) points towards USDA beef being less sustainable than British, not just in the rearing methods but adding the energy demand for transportation, packaging and refrigeration the carbon footprint starts to grow. This is before you consider the social and economic aspects of sustainability, such as buying locally, that are missed by not buying British.
Go local. There are a variety of reasons why buying local is better for sustainability. Reduced food miles is one, but less miles travelled doesn’t always mean more sustainable. To be sustainable the local food system needs to have the environmental, economic, social and health interests of the community at heart. Locally sourced food is also believed by many to be fresher and better quality, and it is this reason local produce is prevalent in the barbecue scene. To take local a step further, it doesn’t necessarily have to be geographically local, as box delivery schemes, farmers’ markets, food festivals and direct sales are all examples where the social distance between producer and consumer is shorter, and people are more socially connected with the source of their food. This means they are more likely to care how it was produced and that it was done sustainably.
Barbecue…a social animal. The social aspects of food sustainability are not to be underestimated. Urbanisation and the commoditisation of food has meant we are more disconnected from our food. This impacts sustainability because as consumers we know less about where our food comes from, care less how it is produced and value it much less, but barbecue has some pretty good credentials in this area. Barbecue is a very social occasion, one meaning of the word even describes such an occasion, where a central focus of the occasion is usually the food. Barbecue is also very visual, the large cuts of meat often look near enough like they did when they came off the carcass and you’re always seeing those ‘which cuts come from where’ signs of animals with dotted lines across them in barbecue joints. For many people barbecue is also one for the few things they will cook absolutely from scratch. A lot of the popular barbecue cuts also aren’t readily available in the supermarket, which means you have to go to your butcher, and heaven forbid actually have to have a conversation with him (or her) about the meat. Once you’ve had this conversation the evidence suggests you less likely to waste what you’ve bought.
Waste not want not. In the UK food service sector food waste costs £2.5bn a year, of which 75% was edible and only 12% was recycled. Although there are no studies on barbecue specifically it does appear to have a fairly good approach to waste, certainly compared to other food cuisines. Barbecue generally regards more of the animal to edible, the barbecue kingpin cut, brisket, was the cut that used to be fed to the dogs. Similarly with pork ribs, beef ribs, chicken wings and chicken thighs, all much more revered in barbecue than other cuisines where the prime cuts are champion. This along with recent trends for the popularity of beef and pig’s cheeks, bone marrow and ‘lesser’ cuts of steak such bavette/ flank, onglette/ hanger and skirt all point to barbecue valuing so much more of the animal than other cuisines, primarily because barbecue is one of the best ways to bring out the best from these cuts of meat. It is no surprise that a lot of the nose-to-tail style food outlets tend to have a strong barbecue connection. In addition to the variety of the start product, barbecue is also a really good way of using leftovers, think Brunswick stews, pit beans, chillis, tacos, sandwiches, wraps, pie fillings and salads.
Variety is the spice of life. The diversity of meat we consume globally is limited, 90% of our meat comes from only 14 species of animal, each of whose own intra-species genetic diversity is gradually decreasing as a result of selective breeding. A lot of this is for commercial reasons, but for reasons of quality there appears to be a resurgence in the barbecue scene for older, rarer and more traditional breeds, particularly pigs and cows. However, if this exercise is purely aesthetic and by focusing on rare breeds there is a sustainability compromise elsewhere (e.g. you have to feed it more, and for longer, for less return), there is a danger that in thinking we are doing a good thing for sustainability ends up inadvertently being negative, but there is no evidence to support this either way as yet. An example where barbecue appears to be making a positive contribution is support for the #goatober campaign the last two years, promoting the consumption of kid goat meat, a by-product of the goat dairy industry, who unlike their bovine counterparts have less commercial use.
What’s a ‘cue to do? The research suggests that barbecue can be a really sustainable way of cooking, on environmental, social and economic grounds, let alone absolutely delicious and a lot of fun. There’s every reason why this should be the case as it’s how we’ve cooked for the last 10,000 years, less the last 100 years since the invention of the electric cooker and the sustainability of our food system started to go a bit wrong. But it’s not my role or the role of UK BBQ Mag to suggest how you should or shouldn’t approach your barbecue, instead I will say how what I’ve learned has changed my behaviour.
Since educating myself on the issues I can’t now unlearn them, so I try and do what I can as often as I can. Do I always use the local butcher? No. Do I solely use charcoal that I can identify as being sustainably made? No. Do I manage to not waste any food? No. Have I become a vegan? Certainly not! But do I use the local butcher more, buy the odd bag of sustainable charcoal, eat a wider range of cuts, value more of the animal, throw less away and eat a bit less meat and more vegetables, yes. As a result, I’ve hopefully made a small difference, and as time goes on this difference grows and it becomes easier as the sustainable behaviour just becomes the norm, and in any case it’s better than doing nothing. I’m not an eco-warrior, or rich, or best mates with a farmer, but I thoroughly enjoyed doing the research and found it fascinating and merely wanted to share what I found with others in the barbecue family, so if nothing else its some ‘cue for thought!
The Author. Jason Wood is an avid backyard barbecue chef, cooking almost solely on his Weber he loves all aspects of barbecue and what it has to offer. He recently completed a Master’s in Business Administration at the University of Northampton where was awarded a distinction for his dissertation on research into the sustainability of the UK barbecue food industry. He runs an emergent blog on barbecue, smoking and what he likes to call ‘barbecology’, an area he aims to blog more on some of the wider aspects of barbecue beyond just the recipes. To find out more go to www.hopsmokefire.com.
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