THE GRILL
Meat and Greet
Richard H Turner is a chef,
butcher, restaurateur and food
writer. RUPERT BATES heads
to Hawksmoor to grill the king
of carnivores
Picture the scene. It’s Le Gavroche in London’s
Mayfair back in the day when it was run by Albert
Roux and Michel Roux Jr.
There’s a VIP in the restaurant – no names, no pack drill –
but a name that requires a private security detail to dine on
a neighbouring table, eyes peeled over the peeled prawns.
Richard H Turner – once of the Parachute Regiment – was
ever vigilant and professional in this role, but he couldn’t
help noting how good the food was. It was a Damascene
moment for a man who is now one of the most feted open
fire chefs in the country – king of the London carnivores.
Hawksmoor, Turner & George, Meatopia – wherever
fire meets food, you’ll likely to find a Turner signature
seared somewhere.
“One day I approached the Roux family to work in the
kitchen, but was told no,” says Turner.
“I kept asking every time I was in the restaurant and
eventually got a job. My mum was a great cook, but I didn’t
know my shallots from my onions, or how to hold a knife yet
alone cut with it. Somehow I survived a year there.”
BBQ | Spring 2020 | 05