hardware can loosen and possibly allow
water into the boat. If nothing else, be
sure to use a silicon sealant around any
screw holes. For best results, bolt on a
3/4-inch-thick starboard polyethylene
mounting plate, which is available
through most marine catalogs and big-
box stores, often as a kit. A transducer
can then be installed on the mounting
plate, which accepts and holds screws,
in a place that will ensure good read-
ings, and it’ll essentially be worry-free
once installed. the only holes to drill in
the boat are the initial bolt holes for the
plate, and they can be situated to miss
side-imaging transducer
internal knee braces and other hard-
ware. If you later replace or upgrade
the transducer, you won’t leave any
holes in the boat itself, just the
starboard.
Wires and Wiring
running wires within the gunwales
of aluminum boats also differs from
the same procedures with fiberglass
rigs. Many aluminums don’t have the
wiring “tubes” installed within the
hulls as in modern glass bass boats. If
you’re the owner of such a craft, add
one if possible. t-h Marine makes the
industry standard for rigging tubes,
and the addition of such will make
further rigging dramatically easier.
Unfortunately, in some cases adding
a rigging tube after the boat has been
built and equipped with a motor isn’t
possible.
regardless, special consideration
must be made for pulling wires due to
the small accesses offered in alu-
minum rigs. within the gunwales,
space is limited, and often crowded
with outboard controls. A wire-pulling
device is a must for all aluminum rig-
ging. Don’t even attempt the process
without one.
to prevent future headaches when
installing wires, always pull a second
rope or string, along with your wires,
and leave it within the hull to act as a
pull-through for future projects.
while wire rigging might sound
intimidating with aluminum rigs, in
some cases such boats offer very
easy access below deck because they
lack the walls and stringers found in
glass boats. In fact, this access
allowed me to install trolling motor
wires throughout my saltwater center
console in less than 10 minutes. It
really depends on the build of the
boat you’re rigging.
MORE ALUMINUM ADVANTAGES
You know what the advantages of a fiberglass rig are:
stability, more room for electronics and gear, a better ride
in heavy seas. On some fisheries where long runs are typi-
cal, a traditional glass rig is the only way to go.
And yet aluminum setups have their place. If you’re con-
templating making the switch, consider some of alu-
minum’s advantages:
Turn on a dime – One trait immediately noticeable
when maneuvering an aluminum rig is the boat’s ability to
turn around in a very tight circle. With more of the boat rid-
ing high in the water, an aluminum boat feels as though it
“corkscrews” around, allowing an angler to spin in a con-
fined area. It’s an advantage, too, for jumping on pad in an
impossible spot for a glass boat.
Use smaller equipment – Aluminum boats require less
power than glass to do the same job. My 24-volt Minn Kota
Ultrex trolling motor powers my 17-foot aluminum rig at
more than 3 mph – the same as a 36-volt motor on a lot of
glass rigs. This saves space and weight by requiring one
less deep cycle battery. A small 10-pound mushroom
anchor holds me in current and a steady chop without any
problem, and can be easily stowed when not in use.
Gain remote access – For fiberglass bass boat opera-
tors, it’s tough to comprehend how easily an aluminum rig
launches and loads on even the poorest ramps. This
44
comes in handy for anglers searching for remote trophy
waters, but can be equally useful for tournament anglers
hoping to access an isolated backwater during practice,
saving valuable time and energy otherwise required from a
long idle.
Tow it more easily – The lightweight design of an alu-
minum boat makes it a breeze to tow, a trait a few touring
pros are beginning to realize.
FLWFISHING.COM I FEBRUARY-MARCH 2017