fluid should cover. in most cases, the
fluid level should be kept within 1/2
inch of the cap.
if fluid levels seem frequently low
or steering problems persist, a
hydraulic fluid leak might have
occurred. Leaks occasionally pop up
around fittings and connections that
might need to be replaced. this is a
particular problem if a new install
incorporates a few old parts. for
boats coming straight from the facto-
ry, a leak is pretty rare.
More commonly, hydraulic steer-
ing leaks develop at contact points
where hoses rub or chap. hydraulic
lines have a tendency to move back
and forth when fluid is pumped
through them. for that reason, lines
should have ample room to operate
without worry that they will rub on
another outboard component or
around their entrance into the boat’s
hull. Be sure to investigate those
areas if a leak is suspected, and follow
the hoses as far forward as possible.
no amount of hydraulic fluid
leaking out of the system should be
considered acceptable. it’s a closed
system, and hydraulic steering
requires no air be introduced, so
something bad is sure to happen if
seals on lines are compromised. in
the event that any fluid needs to be
added, use only the fluid recom-
mended by the steering system
manufacturer. in an extreme pinch,
transmission fluid will work.
power of the purge
if steering problems persist, there
might be air in the lines, and the sys-
tem likely needs purging or bleeding.
this will also be the case following
the installation of a new system.
Properly purging air from a hydraulic
steering system is likely the most dif-
ficult aspect of maintenance.
obviously, you probably shouldn’t
jump into the process without
reviewing the manual for your
hydraulic steering system first. that
said, here’s the basic procedure:
steering fluid is added at the
helm port using a filler tube that
threads into the port on one end and
to the fluid bottle on the other (you
can use a funnel, but the filler tube is
easier). to start the process, turn the
wheel and puncture the plastic bottle
with the included pin. as the fluid
begins to drain into the port, contin-
ue turning the steering wheel so the
pump is pushing fluid through the
system. once full, turn the wheel
hard over to the right, then open the
starboard bleeder valve at the rear
cylinder. as the wheel continues to
be turned, fluid is allowed to flow.
repeat the procedure on the other
side. go back and forth until all the
air is purged (fluid flows out with no
air) and the steering is smooth.
Leave it to the pros?
this rundown of basic mainte-
nance gives a good starting point for
those who enjoy wrenching their
own gear, or anyone with a project
boat in the works. for most, howev-
er, it may be best to consult a certi-
fied dealer if a simple fluid check and
fill doesn’t resolve a steering prob-
lem. today’s bass crafts are becom-
ing increasingly complicated and
costly, so advanced work is often
best left to certified technicians.
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