S Straight Razor Shaves Make a Comeback
H
By Ant the Barber, Hartford, CT
A close shave is hard to come by nowadays without the professional touch of
a barber’s straight razor. Thankfully, more coverage of this lost art form has
been hitting the internet and television, causing more consumers to rediscover
the benefits of the straight razor shave. However, this is not a service to jump
in and perform until you are completely familiar with the technique and
comfortable with the blade. While learning, the shave is going to look much
worse than what you can do with a disposable razor, but with practice,
clients will be lining up for a smooth shave from you. This is not a task often
performed at home so barber shops are finding a resurgence opportunity for
this service. In addition to face and head shaves, straight razors can be used
for finishing work or even cutting hair. So, sharpen your blade…and your skills.
Tools and Products
There are two types of straight razors: changeable and conventional. Both
razors look similar and are used in the same manner, however the benefits to
using the changeable blade razor is the ease to which the blade is replaced
from one client to another, meeting sanitation standards in the barber shop.
Changeable blades are also lighter than conventional razors. Conventional
straight razors are the traditional kind. They require honing and stropping to
maintain an even, sharp cutting edge. The razor’s handles can be made from
hard rubber, plastic, bone, or new polymer materials which is a good selection
for choosing a personal preference.
The products you will use with a shave include shaving cream,
p
y
g
,
shaving lotion, or soaps; a hot towel; and a bump lotion. Make sure you have
aving
something for clients with sensitive skin. You should also have a styptic powder
mething
on hand for any cuts. Some barbers like to use a boar-hair shaving brush and
cup to mix their own shaving cream or they have a hot lather machine which, all
p
you have to
u
do is push a
button for
tt
the warm
e
cream to com
am come
me
out. It’s best not to use regular
t.
no
ot
canned shave cream for straight razor
nned
e
shaves, as they don’t lubricate enough. Other nice
aves,
th
hey
shaving extras are the hot towel box. There are plenty of products on
aving
s
the market, o you can create your own.
e
or
How To Se A Shave
ow Sell
ell
Most of the time you won’t have to work too hard on selling your client on
ost
a hot shave. Most guys know someone who has had a professional shave or
ot
know what a treat it is from watching the movies. Depending on how often
ow
your client is already coming in for a haircut, ask him about adding a shave,
ur
which would be a good once a week or even twice a week add on. Clients will
ich
most likely maintain the shave at home since they most likely shave every
ost
m
morning. If you are having trouble selling them on it, describe to them how
orning. yo
ou
good the shave feels after a hot towel over the face and complimentary
od
sha
ave
shoulder or temple massage. It’s a nice way to relax at the barber shop. Let
oulder temple
them know ho long it will take, which should be about 20 minutes, or longer
how
em
ow
if you think they need the extra attention.
ou
th
hey
Safety Tips
fety Tips
Moles, skin tags, pimples, razor bumps, or any other kind of raised marks on
oles,
ta
ags,
the skin could be cut off with the razor, causing discomfort to your client. Tight
e
d
areas, like the earlobes and upper lip require extra attention and focus as well.
eas,
e
To prevent any mishaps, make sure to stretch the skin while working. Remember
y
that any side-to-side motion with the blade will cut, so always move on an
at
side-to-side
angle. Don’t try to cut everything with one pass; slow down and take multiple
gle.
t
26 | barbersonlymagazine.com | Dec./Jan. 2011
passes, working area by area.
Also, remember that every client is different. To guarantee your
best work and the client’s total satisfaction, it’s necessary to establish an open
line of communication as soon as the client sits down in your chair. Find out
if they have allergies, sensitive skin, concerns about their skin, etc. It’s also
important to be able to answer questions regarding your services, techniques,
products, and the after care.
Sanitation
How to keep your tools clean and performing their best depends on what kind
of razor you have. If you’re using a changeable blade, change out the blade
after every use and spray down the holder with a disinfectant, such as 5-n-1
spray. If you have a conventional straight razor, then sharpening and stropping
the blade is the proper method. Both should be thoroughly dried after each
use and stored in a dry place to prevent rusting. Don’t neglect your other
products either. The shaving brush should be cleaned and dried by shaking
out excess moisture and hung upside down. BOM
Anthony Evangelista (aka “Ant the Barber”) currently works
at 3D Barber Salon in East Hartford, CT. He has been a professional for two years. Ant said his shop predominantly does a
lot of fades, blow outs, tapers, Bigen cuts, designs, and many
straight razor services. He plans to open his own shop in two
years that will be strictly offer barbering services. He appreciates old school techniques and services, like hot towel shaves,
but with the ability to do the latest trends in hair styles and
designs. In extra addition to his shop would be a counter to
sell cigars. He wants his shop to be a place where a father can
bring his son or a son could bring his father and everyone will
be welcome.