BALTIMORE PEACH CAKE, WOODLEA BAKERY
KARA MAE HARRIS
German-Inspired Desserts
Baltimore’ s bakery traditions have German roots. In the 1800s, the city was a tremendous draw for German immigrants, with the City of Baltimore estimating that about 25 % of the population claimed German descent in 1860. These new Baltimoreans then opened bakeries and created some of the city’ s long-standing desserts, including the iconic Berger cookie. The rich, cake-like cookie slathered in a thick layer of fudgy frosting was conceived by German immigrant Henry Berger, who opened his East Baltimore bakery in 1835, and can still be found on grocery store shelves throughout the city.
Harris has a few favorite desserts that were created during these bygone years. From July to mid- September, she enjoys peach cake, a yeasted cake topped with fresh and bright peach slices that is
BERGER COOKIES
believed to have been invented by German bakers. Harris discovered that this cake was wildly popular in Baltimore throughout the 1900s: Local food columnists lamented how often they were asked for a recipe, and the Baltimore Sun
JUSTIN TSUCALAS named“ Baltimore Peach Cake” as its most requested recipe in 1991.
Harris is also fond of smearcase cheesecake, or smearcake, a simple dessert served in substantial square slices. This version of cheesecake is made with a dough-like crust instead of the traditional graham cracker base.“ It’ s very creamy and lightly sweet, and it’ s usually topped with cinnamon sugar,” Harris says.
On Old Line Plate, Harris writes wistfully about these cakes, which are getting harder to find in the city. But those who want to enjoy a slice of Baltimore’ s sweet past can still do so at Woodlea Bakery in Northeast Baltimore, which was opened by German immigrants John and Dorothy Hergenroeder in 1943.
Of course, Harris inspires another way to enjoy Baltimore’ s bygone dishes: Pick a recipe from Old Line Plate, tie on an apron and start cooking up a slice of Charm City history. VB
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