Baltic Outlook December 2018 | Page 56

YOUR NEXT DESTINATION / December YOUR NEXT DESTINATION / December Words by Ilze Vītola Photos by Ilze Vītola and iStock Illustration by Agnese Tauriņa THE NEW VIBE OF MADRID 54 / airBaltic.com Puerta del Sol is one of the busiest squares in Madrid. It is abuzz with action, but there’s no one trying to get me onto a Hop On Hop Off bus or inviting me to have paella at their restaurant. It almost seems like I’m the only visitor there. Dazed by the hustle and bustle and such mesmerising architectural marvels as the Casa de Correos, the current headquar- ters of the Madrid regional government, I stumble into a young man on his way to a yoga class. Ashamed by my clumsiness, I start to overflow with apologies. Edu- ardo seems to be in a hurry but is very forgiving; he even manages to exchange pleasantries with me and jot down the names of a few places to go for top-notch tortillas. Later, I realise that this brief en- counter sums up the essence of Madrid: the city is relatively free from tourist traps and the locals mind their own business, but once engaged in a conversation, they are very kind-hearted and thoughtful and genuinely wish for you to have the best experience in their city. Another example. I was looking for La Tabacalera in the Lavapiés neighbour- hood, which is known for its graffiti and high concentration of immigrants, a melange that includes around 90 different nationalities. Suddenly the large steel doors behind me opened, and a cheery man with grey hair greeted me. He kissed me three times – a custom that first startled me, a standoffish Northerner, but which I got used to by the end of my trip. The man turned out to be Luis Calderón, the communication manager of the Cen- tro Social Autogestionado La Tabacalera, the most famous self-managed neighbour- hood association in Madrid. Baltic Outlook / 2018 / 55