BackMags Glamour USA – January 2017 | Page 58

Talk / The Conversation

The Power of an Outsider

Designer Christian Siriano didn’ t really feel included by the fashion industry. So now he’ s changing it— to include all of us. As told to Emily Mahaney

igrew up in Annapolis, Maryland, a preppy, traditional military community a few minutes from the Naval Academy. I felt, at times, super different. I was young. Gay. Eccentric. A little guy. Those things made me feel insecure sometimes, but they also made me feel connected to other people who are different, who break conventions.

I wasn’ t interested in the“ popular girl.” I was interested in the“ cool girl” with tattoos or unique clothes. I worked in a hair salon, where I made friends with these two really individualistic girls. One had colorful hair; the other wore six-inch stilettos every day. They were so different, but they were proudly themselves. I was that way too: People were probably like,“ Why is this little kid so confident?”
I would need that self-belief. I studied fashion design in London and interned for British designers, but I broke into fashion at 21 in an unusual way: Project Runway. I was there to show how much I loved to create, but I became this character( so much so that Amy Poehler played me on Saturday Night Live).
When Runway ended, I instantly had a brand without having a brand. Viewers wanted to buy a piece of Christian Siriano, and I had nothing to sell them. I had to hit the ground running, quickly figuring out how to create product and sell it to stores.
Unfortunately I didn’ t have much industry support. My network was in London; I was living in New York. I had no mentors nearby. I knew no one. People in the industry who knew of me found it strange that I broke through on TV.
I was never a fashion darling, whom the industry rallied around. There were buyers who were like,“ Eh, no, not for us,” and editors who never showed up to see a collection, let alone pull my designs. If I had waited to get a 10-page magazine spread, I would still be waiting.
Mr. Feel Good Siriano made a name for himself dressing women of all ages, races, and body types.
So I asked myself, If you don’ t have the typical model of success, being in the coolest store, dressing the It Girl, appearing in every fashion magazine, what do you do? Give up? No. I had to do my own thing, or I wouldn’ t have a business.
And I did just that: In my first year, I got a high-end retailer, Saks, to sell my collection, but I also took on a mass opportunity, designing shoes and purses for Payless. Some designers might have had reservations about that move, but I was so excited to have designs in thousands of stores!
I focused not on dressing It Girls but rather on girls who were iconic to me. I dressed new faces, who have a harder time securing designer looks. I saw Gaga perform in’ 08 and outfitted her for one of her first TV spots. I didn’ t know she’ d become Lady Gaga! I just thought she was cool.
And I always championed body inclusivity. Still do. People noticed that last year when I sent plus-size models down my runway, launched a line with Lane Bryant, and designed Leslie Jones’ dress for the Ghostbusters premiere. Leslie couldn’ t find a designer to dress her, and unfortunately I hear stories like hers a lot. But whether it’ s Leslie or Gwyneth Paltrow, I don’ t think about a woman’ s size when I dress her. I ask myself, Am I a fan?
Now people in and out of fashion are coming around. My line got picked up by retailers like Moda Operandi last year. We’ re dressing up-and-comers and major girls. Nine women wore my looks to the Emmys! Michelle Obama wore one of my designs. And I’ m a Council of Fashion Designers of America member to boot. I’ ve found an exciting, new model of success.
I think that kid in Annapolis believed something great would happen for him in art. But I don’ t think he could have imagined being a part of something bigger. I get to be a voice of inclusivity. I get to bring people along for the ride with me. And I’ m not done yet!
The Big Question: DO YOU THINK IT’ S SEXIST TO CALL WOMEN“ GIRLS”? YES: 22 % NO: 78 %
SIRIANO: KEVIN TACHMAN. SURVEY DATA COLLECTED FROM 301 WOMEN AGES 18 – 44 OCTOBER 3 – 5, 2016, USING SURVEYMONKEY AUDIENCE
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