August 2020 | Page 67

Judith, the couple settled on Providence for the Fearless Fish location because they were smitten with the city’s quality of life and they saw huge potential in the burgeoning food scene. “I absolutely love Providence. I thought this is perfect. It’s so much easier to live here than Boston. It’s much more affordable, it has great restaurants and creative energy,” Meltzer says. “On top of that, there’s excitement around food here, and it’s the Ocean State. For a fish market, I was like this is the place. This is where we’re going to do it.” Now, Fearless Fish is an around-the-clock operation. Twice a week, the market sends out emails to let subscribers know what is available to start the week and for the weekend. The newsletter also shares some behindthe-scenes fish industry talk, such as how quality is not always determined by when the fish came in, but how it was handled long before it arrived at the shop. “For example, does a boat gut and ice the fish properly or does it bake in the sun on the boat deck? This can be the difference between ‘okay’ fish and great fish,” he explains. In addition, Fearless Fish makes daily social media announcements (as well as frequent website and online store updates) of its list of available seafood, from the usual suspects of smoked salmon, fluke, scup and redfish to the more uncommon uni and razor clams. He also sells whole squid, called “dirty squid,” while spilling a few squid secrets this writer never knew. “A lot of squid might be caught here, frozen, and then sent to China for processing, and then frozen again and sent back,” Meltzer says. “We sell fresh squid or a squid that is once frozen [dirty] and we thaw it here and clean it, and the quality difference is amazing.” Meltzer works with local oyster farmers and the Ocean State Shellfish Cooperative that deliver shellfish, and he secures other seafood from dealers who source directly from fishermen. On the day we visited, Andrade’s Catch of Bristol dropped off Narragansett Bay littlenecks dug hours earlier by local quahoggers. The goal is to buy seafood from dealers that source directly from fishing boats. “Buying directly from fishermen is not so easy for a number of reasons,” Meltzer says, explaining how the fishermen would have to package, sell and deliver their own fish for that direct experience, so it makes sense to work with dealers. “We try to be as close to that connection as we can. Another reason is the volume that a lot of fishermen bring in would be too much for us to take. It helps us to get in a relatively small number of high-quality items.” Not only does the market stock the star of Whole black bass. “To Serve Is Our Mission; To Love Is Our Tradition.” Even during these challenging times, Saint Antoine Community remains committed to providing quality and compassionate care to those most in need. Mobile Bar and Catering Service Ready for the year of the yard party! ricruisincocktails.com (571) 722-2153 Saint Antoine Community www.stantoine.net THE ULTIMATE IN ASSISTED LIVING AND EXCELLENCE IN NURSING AND REHABILITATIVE CARE www.stantoine.net All located on one beautiful campus. 400 Mendon Road, No. Smithfield, Rhode Island 02896 A health care ministry of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Providence. RHODE ISLAND MONTHLY l AUGUST 2020 65