Border Crossing
After crossing the Malaysian border into Kelantan state, the leader
of the community was waiting to meet us in front of Istana Jahar
Palace, an enchantingly beautiful landmark upon which the warm
light of evening was then shining, illuminating the palace’s giant
arch. From this meeting point it took us a little while to reach Kubung
Telaga – a 30 km drive – where the homestay is situated. But when
we arrived we were warmly and gleefully greeted by a parade of
locals sporting traditional costumes, assembled at the entrance
to the community.
One of welcoming snacks was Kuih Kuci, a sweet, stuffed, red flour
resembling the Thai dish Kanom Tien. It was a soothing snack to
have, together with something sweet to drink, before we began the
final trip to the houses that had been arranged for us, with 2 persons
staying in each household. I opt for staying over at the community
leader’s house, as I wanted to find some time to interview him. I
had to use my sign language skills – as most locals speak only
Malay – however the leader’s daughter was capable in English, and
she became my interpreter. She told me the idea of Homestay-style
tourism was started 6 years ago, and most visitors are Malays from
Kuala Lumpur, as those people are keen to experience this simple
lifestyle. Other clients include those from Singapore, South Korea
and Japan, as they are tempted by the awesome and unique way of
life within the community. And with a daily rate of just US $20 per
person, including 3 meals, it’s a very reasonably priced vacation.
Visitors are also able to see some shows – at very little charge –
Baan Saikhao Homestay, Pattani
such as the traditional yo-yo performance, although most visitors tend to
buy a full package that includes a variety of activities. Favourite activities
include those that give visitors a real experience with the homeowners,
such as fishing (when the homeowner is a fisherman), or rice farming (in
cases where the homeowne is a farmer).
When it comes to dining, those looking for any cutlery will be disappointed,
as there’s no forks and spoons on offer and just a short spoon on the side
dishes. We are expected to eat using our hands, and there is a kettle – I
mistakenly thought it was a teapot – with water for cleaning our hands.
Most dishes were local, mainly chicken and fish, and the curries were pretty
similar to those in the Southern part of Thailand, but milder in flavour. The
owner of the house was amused by his visitors’ reluctance to eat by hand,
and he laughed out loud several times during the course of the meal.
In the evening we were entertained by one of the local traditional plays,
entitled Deke Barat (similar to the Deke Hulu plays from Southern Thailand).
The team of actors, in dark and serious faces, held the audience completely
spellbound with their resounding singing voices. We couldn’t understand
a word, but the beautiful rhymes and the enchanting dances put us in a
blissful trance.
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