Art Chowder September | October Issue No. 29 | Page 38

Mme. Le Brun loved St. Petersburg, where she was welcomed, found new friends and reconnected with old friends and acquaintances there. Her memoirs observe its seasons, society, the splendor of grand balls, concerts and theatre performances, the many beautiful women at court, lavish hospitality, fireworks, architecture and gardens, a thousand boats coming and going on the Neva River . . . With no lack of work, she painted from morning to evening, except on Sundays when she had to allow two hours for those who wished to visit her atelier. She held the Russian people of all stations in high regard, considering them capable and intelligent, and in general honest and gentle by nature, and noted an overall lack of crime. Mme. Le Brun profoundly admired Catherine the Great, for the simplicity and lack of affectation in her temperament and daily routines, combined with the great authority she wielded for the glory of Russia and the well being of its people, listing a number of tangible projects: villages built of stone because wood so easily burns down, schools, canals, a legal code, innoculations against disease. Le Brun saw the people of Russia happy and blessed under her reign. The reign of her son Paul I, who succeeded her, was another matter. The double portrait of his daughters, the grand duchesses Alexandra Pavlovna and Elena Pavlovna was commissioned by their grandmother, Catherine II. By the artist’s reckoning they were about thirteen or fourteen when she painted them. Their faces she described as celestial, the coloration of their skin so fine and delicate as if they lived on ambrosia. A maid of honor in the court of Catherine II and a neighbor and companion of the artist, Countess Varvara Nikolayevna Golovina, née Princess Golitsyna (1766-1821) is described in Mme. Le Brun’s Souvenirs as “a charming woman, intelligent and gifted, and she herself was often our only entertainment, for she received very few visitors. She drew very well and composed delightful songs, which she sang to her own accompaniment on the piano. 38 ART CHOWDER MAGAZINE Louise Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun Portrait of Countess Golovina c. 1797-1800 Oil on canvas 32.8 x 26.2” Barber Institute of Fine Arts, Birmingham, England Moreover, she was on the watch for all the literary novelties in Europe, which I believe were known at her house as soon as they were in Paris.” Her own memoirs were translated into English and published in 1910 as Memoirs of Countess Golovine, a lady at the court of Catherine II. Le Brun’s recounting of how the public atmosphere in Russia changed to gloom and fear is beyond the present scope, but from her observations, Paul I today might well be described as a paranoid schizophrenic. His fear of plots and assassination proved true. Nevertheless, he too was an art lover, and before she left Russia, Mme. Le Brun was made a member of the Academy of St. Petersburg. In appreciation she donated what was said to be her favorite self- portrait, now in the Hermitage, which Catherine had built. Mme. Le Brun returned to France in 1802. In 1807 Napoleon commissioned a portrait of his sister, Caroline Murat and her daughter. In her memoirs the artist records, “I could not conceivably describe all the annoyances, all the torments I underwent in painting this picture.”