Art Chowder September | October, Issue 23 | Page 49

Mendocino, California - Meyer Family Cellars Syrah  http://www.meyerfamilycellars.com - $38 Syrah has a distinctive edge from cool-climate vineyards that show off its spicy character; this one is so racy and deep at the same time that it remains easy to taste the herbs on the fire roasted vegetables and add to the lamb rack despite the rose- mary salt crust.   Omak, Washington - Rockwall Cellars Barbera http://www.rockwallcellars.com - $24 One of Washington’s coolest growing regions boasts wines like this in small batches.  The hang time afforded this Barbera brings a dark berry character, gentle baking spice and tobacco before the crisp cherry-berry finish — lower tannin and hard to stop drinking.   Ribbon Ridge, Oregon - Brick House Cellars Gamay http://www.brickhousewines.com - $38 It’s hard not to love Gamay’s lower-acid, juicy approach, but when it is grown in cooler climates like Oregon’s Ribbon Ridge it offers spicier, exotic nuances to Caprese salad and Sage Bear- naise chicken.  Buy more than you think you’ll need.   Whether your preference follows Proustian detail or Mondrian’s broad brush, practice the understanding of how the crisp flavors of acidity change flavor. Higher acid wine works for the flavors of a season, a cuisine or a meal. Enjoy your practice! September | October 2019 49