Picture credit : Maja Rodell Picture credit : Ari Nordhagen
ELOTE BOWL
CHILE ROASTED CORN , SMOKED PAPRIKA CREMA , JALAPENO , SHISHITO CHILE , COTIJA , FRIED PICKLED ONION
POSOLE
BRAISED PORK AND HOMINY STEW , RICH CHILE BROTH , CABBAGE , RADISH , AVOCADO , CILANTRO , COTIJA
While French chefs have been consistently breaking the mold since the 60s , Mexican cuisine waited to be explored as a canvas for chefs ’ creativity until recently . It was touchy to trespass the traditional boundaries . Honoring traditions while creating a canvas for culinary free expression is the intersection where Travis ’ creativity and technique take root . It is the language he came to master and shares with us with humility and gratitude . Going beyond is what leads a chef towards a Steelhead homage to al pastor , to deliver a trout taco .
How do you stay true to classics , while using progressive technique and just the right amount of disruption ? A combination of factors led Travis beyond these boundaries . In no particular order : marrying and being completely adopted into a Mexican family , being a classically trained chef when the death of fine dining as we know it is happening , spending countless hours with Latin staff after crazy shifts while eating dishes the way their moms made them , and looking into his Mexican-American daughter ’ s eyes and understanding the world she lives in . The same eyes you will find on the beautifully overwhelming mural welcoming you when you step into Cochinito . These Dia de la Muerte eyes warn you : you are about to step into a new culinary world . And honestly , you want to .
Why wouldn ’ t you , when a classically trained chef uses on a $ 4.50 taco the same technique he would approach $ 50 dishes with ? The moment your order is delivered , you see the geometric structure of the composition on your plate ; you smell the meats braised for hours , and the handpicked ingredients . How freeing is it to not have to commit to a three-hour dinner , being able to grab your food with your hand and , with all the intentionality in the world , devour this taco like you mean it ? The Cochinito crowd speaks for itself , too ! The mix of ages , backgrounds , families , seated in the booth next to a first date — creates the beautifully chaotic sound of a Sinaloan street market . Cochinito sounds like good food .
Whether you ’ re coming from a traditional or modernist background , you are about to take a chance on something you ’ re not familiar with . To a certain extent , I try to be cautious and measured when I set
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