Art Chowder May | June 2022 Issue No. 39 | Page 36

OCTOPUS APPETIZER

OCTOPUS APPETIZER

CHARRED SPANISH OCTOPUS , SPANISH CHORIZO , POTATO , CASTELVENTRANO OLIVE , PIQUILLO CHILE , BALSAMIC , CHILE OIL
Picture credit : Maja Rodell people ’ s expectations with food , but there is absolutely zero risk in saying that , while Cochinito might not be exactly what you expected ( it really won ’ t ), you will really like it .
Slowly simmering , braising , hand making each tortilla one by one like the sushi apprentice who spends half a lifetime learning the techniques of cooking rice before they can start handling fish — it all takes a lot of time and love . There is romance in every bite of Cochinito ’ s food and , if love is time and dedication , Cochinito ’ s cuisine and Chef Travis ’ craft have a lot of love to offer .
One of the many reasons why we should respect and admire Chef Travis ’ s approach is this love . He is one of those chefs who decided to dismantle the toxic culture that has existed in restaurant kitchens since the beginning of hospitality times : men abusing staff and yelling at them as if it was the only way to run a brigade ( interestingly , the term was taken from the army and used to describe kitchen personnel ). Chef Travis is a very nice guy and kindness is an interesting ingredient . It translates in his craft and becomes another layer in his dishes flavor profile .
The culinary experience ends up being mellow , creative , fun , generous , but more than anything else , it ’ s personal and intimate . When you eat Chef Travis ’ cuisine — you are spending a genuine moment with him , his wife and daughter , his Mexican family — you feel like you are sharing a moment at their table getting to know them . And honestly , this moment always feels a little too short and you will find yourself wanting more . There is true comfort in eating kind food .
Go to Cochinito , not to be fed , but to be nurtured . Every time they are crafting something in that kitchen , they draw from a memory experience and tap into the possibilities of imagination . Go there to try something that goes beyond just tasting good . Chef Travis and his team took their mind out of it and , instead , poured their heart and soul into it .
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