while leaving the brilliant minerality intact . It is a combination tough to pull off and they do it , a few years running now . The other remarkable white wine for Cinder is their Dry Viognier ( available April / May this year - $ 23 .). The flagrantly floral nature of this grape variety identifies it quickly by smell , yet by downplaying the amount of sugar left in the wine , the aromatics dampen to a level that invites the next sip . These are both wines to ask for / have shipped home .
But blending the two may be even better . Continuing the tradition of the Pacific Northwest ’ s first , oldest wine region , Idaho ’ s Colter ’ s Creek winery crafts a blend of Chardonnay and Viognier together . The very first wines of the Pacific Northwest are proved to have been vinifera varieties ( still the most popular wine grapes ) and the wines were usually blends of these . Colter ’ s Creek is interested more in the flavor than the history but their Juliaetta Blanco ( so named for their hometown ) shows off bright citrus , piercing yet balanced acidity and again a quieter balance to the oft o ’ er weaning Viognier aromatics . They show in the wine as flowers , not perfume . Also , the floral notes to their wines are a product of careful , cool-temperature winemaking that accentuates a grape ’ s most delicate aromatics . Warm winemaking is great for robust wines for robust foods ; Juliaetta Blanco (
www . colterscreek . com - $ 21 .) is made to be laser clean and evoke the flavors of the dish next to which it sits at dinner .
Rounding out a too-brief selection of Pacific Northwest whites has to include one of the charming sparkling versions . With enough complexity and fruit to balance the difficult food that is asparagus while still coming across as nonchalant , Syncline ’ s bubbly wine named Scintillation (
www . synclinewine . com - $ 45 .) provides insight to the quality of wine produced here . Rare and often in short supply , the wine carries a texture and mild yeasty character from the long aging process . It is hand riddled . Along the way , James and Poppie Mantone craft all manner of lipsmacking white wines from Grüner Veltliner to Picpoul to the above mentioned Grenache Blanc to a savory , Provencal-style rose .
Common winegrower wisdom says that the Earth speaks in wine . White wines with the foods of springtime tune the channel in to clarity .
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