Art Chowder Mar | April 2022 Issue 38 | Page 44

salmon . All of these seasonal foods , and more , cotton to the realm of white wine .
The unfortunate generalization of pale wine is that it cannot age or is incapable of aging well beyond four to six years . While this may be true in the main , it is folly in the whole . Every bottle of white wine available today will be better in a year ( save a tester bottle to demonstrate , then taste and begin a wine cellar .)
Some styles , like our first example , will be best around 10 years after the vintage .
DeLille Cellars based in Woodinville , Washington , is about to celebrate the 25th anniversary of their Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon blend ( www . delillecellars . com - $ 38 .) Based on white wines of Atlantic France , it will mature well , developing a hazelnut richness over time that melds orchard fruit , honeysuckle and citrus zest acidity . For near-term savor , the Upchurch and Gorski families of Delille Cellars recommend this wine with the richness of a charcuterie board — complete with dried apricots , aged Gouda , smoked salmon , roasted garlic and quince preserves . The winery makes a range of Washington State ’ s best wines , but this one shows off the “ raison d ’ être ” the French made it a tradition .
The team of winemakers at Rotie Cellars in Walla Walla , Washington makes a splash for its ripe / balanced / peppery red wines ( and mythical beasts ) but they also dabble in the arcana of the white variant of the popular Grenache grape of Mediterranean France . In their house style of rich and ripe wines , the austere Grenache Blanc ( www . rotiecellars . com - $ 32 .) takes on deeper character like a guitar would to a ukulele . Their style balances the grape ’ s bright acidity and fleshy character . This is the realm of nutty , almost saline , lime zest and light pear . Ageable , so give it a year at least , but pull the cork shy of five years beyond the vintage — it ’ s arc of expression simply peaks sooner than some , later than others . Sean Boyd and his crew make for engaging visits to their tasting rooms — which make the wines taste even better .
Idaho ’ s contributions to great Pacific Northwest wines also continues to climb . Cinder Wines , based near Boise , earns its name with estate vineyards planted over the cindery subsoils that delineate much of the Snake River AVA ( American Viticultural Area ). Together with years of experience and great palates , Melanie and her husband Joe craft an oak-tinged Chardonnay ( www . cinderwines . com - $ 23 .) with just a breath of oak that invites the butterscotch end of the spectrum
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