Open your eyes . You are not in Japan , Morocco , Italy , France , or Mexico . You just entered Lark . Nested in the dazzling Capitol Hill neighborhood of Seattle , from the moment you pass through the door , everything appeals to the senses in unexpected ways .
A dinner at Lark can take you in many directions , but whichever destination you choose , it will capture the cultural culinary grammar , an eclectic and elegant prose that blends cuisines from opposite ends of the world that may traditionally clash with each other . With their sensual and uncomplicated approach to seasons , terroir , and ocean , Chef John Sundstrom and his clan are curators of experiences . Their gift consists of sensing the radiation of the land , wherever they decide to take you . There are a few choices on the menu , but this is the kind of place where I would suggest letting yourself be taken on the journey .
The Ballet
Intuitively , we sat at the corner of the bar and it was the perfect vantage point to observe simultaneously and in random order , the blade effortlessly cutting through the raw Hamachi , the marriage of an impeccably poached egg running over buttery white asparagus , the hand twist bringing the final touch to the sunchoke velouté , the charred notes of the lamb chops with their crunchy young carrot accompaniment , and the crisp of the Figue Tatin , just waiting for to be tasted with the contrasting goat cheese sorbet notes . This mise en scene happens in a kitchen that is surprisingly peaceful – more peaceful than I have ever seen . There is traditionally a form of intensity ( or plain chaos ) in kitchens that is completely nonexistent at Lark . It all looks like a smooth and effortless ballet that translates into the whole experience and every single bite .
The front of house is interestingly eclectic ; a distribution of captivating personalities that you will want to know , not unlike the wide-ranging flavor profiles that make Lark ’ s culinary journey quite unique . It ’ s not the kind of mishmash you can find on a lot of menus . It is , rather , a distinctively curated experience in contrast of flavors and characters , perfectly distributed throughout your dining experience . Like an improvised ballet , it is intuitively executed by people who can read each other . As a customer , don ’ t go to Lark assuming you will observe this choreography , become a part of it . And there is no better way to do that than by letting the sommelier guide your dinner . Let them handpick the crisp , spicy , or tannic notes that will add exactly the right element to an intriguing dinner . It will excite your senses and stimulate the part of your humanity that was designed to appreciate the individual culinary cultures . Bite it . Sip it . Don ’ t overthink it . Less mind , more senses will take you a long way at Lark .
The Messenger
If you ask Chef Sundstrom , he will tell you that the restaurant and the whole journey that led to it happened “ on a lark ”, and that is where the name came from . If that proves anything , it is how miraculously the universe sometimes finds its own organic alignment . A world of simple and immeasurable harmony . When this happens , if you happen to be present , attune yourself to the experience . It is a magnificent journey , a reservoir of feelings guided by an uncanny form of stillness and peace , a quest to know life in every breath and every bite in which the old ways join the new ones . It looks , feels , and tastes like flow – effortless and undeniable .
A few years ago , I was lucky to experience what people consider to be a spiritual awakening . During this epiphany , I was visited by an unexpected guide – a lark . That is when I also discovered Ralph Vaughan Williams ’ s piece The Lark Ascending – a magnificent tune that will take you through worlds you didn ’ t know were connected . Immediately , I had to look up the mythological significance of the bird as it revealed itself to me . The spiritual meaning of the bird is one of elevation , enlightenment , hope , and wisdom . In ancient mythology , larks were messengers between men and Gods , bringing peace , change , freedom , and
32 ART CHOWDER MAGAZINE