LEFT: Agave ovatifolia ‘Frosty Blue’, a Cistus Nursery
selection of this very hardy species, underplanted with
Sedum ‘Dragon’s Blood’. Muhlenbergia reverchonii
and a young Yucca rostrata are in the background.
(Photo by Niall Dunne)
only and then dig them up for winter storage.
We have also been trying out a new series of
plants called “Mangave,” which are interge-
neric hybrids between Agave and Manfreda.
Phil: What plants did suffer winter damage
this year?
Riz: A few younger agaves did not survive.
There were some broken branches on Colletia
hystrix. The weight of the snow broke several pads
off prickly pears (Opuntia species). Cold, wet
weather will cause cosmetic damage to a few of
these plants, but most will recover.
Phil: What advice do you have for readers
who would like to create their own desert garden?
Riz: Begin by devoting a small space and bring
in pumice and crushed rock to amend and raise
a planting bed. Invest in a few larger specimen
plants and supplement with younger treasures as
you add onto your desert garden. A desert garden
in a large container is also attainable, but make
sure it dries out completely and drains perfectly.
Plant small bulbs that are adapted to summer-dry
periods for early interest and pops of color—for
example, Triteleia, Tulipa species, short Allium
species, and Crocus.
Most desert gardens tend to be very archi-
tectural and specimen driven, but we take a
12 v Washington Park Arboretum Bulletin
somewhat naturalistic approach by allowing
plants to spread and seed around. A batch of
Viola tricolor (Johnny jump-up pansies) found its
way into the Desert Garden, blooming in winter
and into early spring, and Eschscholzia californica
(California poppy) has generously seeded itself.
This only is effective in a larger setting; smaller
desert gardens naturally tend to be tidier.
Gardeners can develop their own plant list by
visiting gardens and local plant sales with vendors
that specialize in dry gardens, drought tolerance,
and “mini” plants, such as alpines that stay very
low growing and can survive harsh environments.
Since most desert plantings are small, scale is
something to consider. Dry gardening is often
an experiment, but starting out simply and then
building on what works is the best approach.
Phil: Any nurseries and nursery folk you care
to recommend?
Riz: Resources to check out include Ian
Barclay at The Desert Northwest in Sequim
(www.desertnorthwest.com), Sean Hogan at
Cistus Nursery near Portland (www.cistus.
com), and Paul Bonine and Greg Shepherd at
Xera Plants in Portland (see their great blog at
https://xeraplants.com). m
For information and directions to the Anderson
School, visit www.mcmenamins.com/anderson-
school. To see the Desert Garden, enter the property
from Bothell Way and look for the garden on the right
side, just past the Northshore Lagoon.
P hil W ood is a garden designer and writer and
serves on the “Arboretum Bulletin” Editorial Board.