HOW TO PREPARE WHOLE SQUID FOR COOKING AT HOME .
Visit RIMonthly . com / squid for a slide show of steps .
Cooking squid isn ’ t as indimidating as it sounds . Stu Meltzer , co-owner of Fearless Fish Market in Providence , demonstrates how to prep “ dirty ” squid before cooking . “ Dirty is the term we refer to as unprocessed ,” he says . “ It ’ s in its whole state with the skin on , fins attached , guts in and the whole nine yards .” Fearless Fish sells Rhode Island-harvested squid that ’ s already been processed and frozen by Sea Fresh in North Kingstown , but they occasionally carry it in its whole form if you ’ re interested in prepping it yourself . Here ’ s how to do it from head to foot . Fearless Fish Market , 425 West Fountain St ., Providence , 415-8905 , fearlessfishmarket . com
Squid is classified as a cephalopod , which literally translates to “ head foot ” in Greek . Start prepping squid by sliding a sharp knife below its eyes to separate the head from the foot ( the tentacles ). Once you have separated the tentacles , remove the eyes , and look for a little round beak within the mouth . The squid uses its beak to tear its prey , but you want to remove it before cooking . It ’ s a little black piece surrounded by a protective membrane and it should pop out easily .
Next , remove the guts and pen . You can use a fish scaler or a fork or spoon to scrape them out . “ While the fins are down , you can go over the top of what ’ s left of its head , and get far up into the tube , press down lightly and scrape downward ,” Meltzer says . “ Pull out all those guts and pen while trying to preserve the ink sac .” The pen , or quill , is a plastic-looking membrane that stabilizes the squid when it swims . The pen should come out when you ’ re scraping out the guts , but check back with a scaler , fork or spoon to make sure you ’ ve cleared it all out . There may be a small piece remaining .
Now you can remove the skin and fins from the body , also known as its mantle . Japanese cuisine often leaves the skin intact , but it ’ s removed in American processing . “ Take the scaler , or a fork or spoon and lightly brush the skin to break it off , then get your fingers in there and pull off the skin and its fins ,” Meltzer says . “ Then you have a nice clean tube like you are used to seeing .”
“ Now , you ’ ve got the tube , the tentacles are all clean , the fins are removed , and the beak is out of there .” Go in and separate the ink sac by lightly cutting it away . The ink sac is a tiny black pouch in the middle on the squid . Sometimes it ruptures during processing , but if you can preserve it , it ’ s only a tiny amount of ink .
Cut the tube into squid rings , or you can just grill or saute the whole tube . “ A lot of people think squid is hard to cook , but it could not be easier ,” Meltzer says . “ Just take the rings and tentacles , sprinkle them with salt and pepper , get the pan going at medium / high heat with olive oil and saute for three minutes . Add a little lemon and lemon zest and that ’ s it .” – J . C .
“ DIRTY ” SQUID PHOTOGRAPH ( FIRST ROW , FAR LEFT ) COURTESY OF FEARLESS FISH MARKET .
RHODE ISLAND MONTHLY l APRIL 2021 41