Apparel September 2019 Apparel September 2019 issue | Page 59

FABRIC SPEAK
MANY INDIAN FASHION DESIGNERS
OF INTERNATIONAL FAME ARE
PROMOTING MANGALAGIRI
THROUGH THEIR CREATIONS THAT
REMINISCE THE DESIGNS AND
CULTURES OF THE 16TH CENTURY.
of consumers. Another attractive factor about
Mangalagiri fabrics is the sheer array of colours
it is available in, from bright reds and yellows to
muted shades such as grey and beige.
can also be used to fashion culottes, trousers,
and wide palazzo pants.”
Many Indian fashion designers of international
fame are promoting Mangalagiri textiles through
their creations that reminisce the designs and
cultures of the 16th century. Nidhi Yadav, Creative
Head and Founder, AKS Clothings, said, “The
Government is taking some initiatives to preserve
this handloom art. Various Bollywood celebrities,
too, are endorsing this South Indian fabric, which
is not just light but also immensely graceful.”
Apart from saris, weavers now also make salwar
kameez, yardages, stoles, and dupattas from
the fabric that appeal to a broader spectrum
CHALLENGES GALORE
The fabric received its Geographical Indication
(GI) status in 2013, thanks to the efforts of
the Mangalagiri Master Weavers’ Association
(MMWA). However, a few challenges persist.
“Working on traditional looms is a tedious
process, and even after dedicating two full days
to weaving a sari, the weaver makes not more
than R400. So the young generation is not quite
keen on carrying forward the 500-year-old legacy
of their forefathers. Hence, the Government’s
support is mandatory to conserve this
endangered profession,” says Yadav. It is also the
long gestation period that forms a part of each
sari, which makes the profession less desirable
for the younger generation, most of which lacks
the patience to work on handlooms.
Mangalagiri fabrics have caught the fancy of not
only big designers but also textile revivalists, who
are now doing their bit to breathe new life into it.
In doing so, they are bringing the weave back to
the masses in fresher ways, which will hopefully
enable it to thrive with vigour in the years
to come.
APPAREL
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September 2019
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53