Apparel September 2019 Apparel September 2019 issue | Page 57

FABRIC SPEAK
THE DELICATE ZARI BORDER IN
GOLD ON EXTRA-FINE COTTON
MAKES THIS FABRIC EXTREMELY
EXQUISITE AND ENCHANTING.
TECHNICAL TALES
The weavers in Mangalagiri work on pit looms,
whose rhythmic clatter is almost unmissable.
There are over 10 looms in each of the weaving
centres that are scattered across the town. The
yarns for the weave are combed and readied
in the small alleys that surround these centres.
Mangalagiri saris are usually woven with pure
cotton yarns that are largely sourced from
neighbouring Guntur; they are coloured using
both natural and synthetic dyes. The yarns are
washed and dipped in coloured boiling water—
to have them acquire an even tone—and then
dried in the shade. While zari borders are most
commonly used in these saris, some stores even
retail saris with thread borders. The plain body
of the sari is, at times, adorned with striped or
chequered patterns. The saris are great for all
seasons as they are light in summer months
and help in keeping warm in winter months. The
recent interest in traditional attire has spiked the
demand for these saris. This, in turn, has ensured
that the villagers who work on the looms have
Puneet Jain, Director, ODHNI, an ethnic wear
brand, says, “The Mangalagiri weave is a fine
cotton fabric that is handcrafted in the weaving
town of Mangalagiri, Andhra Pradesh. Here,
close to 5,000 weavers work for wholesalers
and 50 other local outlets in order to make pure
cotton yarns. This fine yarn (with a thread count
of 80x80s) is tightly woven over pit looms to get
a distinct texture. These weaves are intentionally
kept plain, with a thick zari border superimposed
as another woven element on the body of the
fabric. The base cotton is boiled to remove
impurities, dried, and then woven into the fabric.
This is then dyed in vats, followed by the weaving
of the zari border.” This is precisely the most
distinguishing quality of Mangalagiri fabrics—the
lack of embroidery and heavy designs. The thick
gold or silver zari border, tribal motifs on the pallu,
and the inverted chequered patterns make it easy
to differentiate this weave from the others. The
fabric is then sold either as finished saris or fabric
cuts for salwar suits and other dressing material.
The delicate zari border in gold on extra-fine
cotton makes this fabric extremely exquisite
and enchanting.
APPAREL
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