INDIA CANVAS
Meet 5 exporters of the Chikankari hub , Lucknow
Lucknow is not so much known for garment exports as it is for its exclusive and exquisite chikankari embroidery . Of the total estimated business in chikankari-based garments of around Rs . 350 crore , a small portion is also being exported by local manufacturers . And among the few garment exporters , only two to three of them are working in large level and in an organised way . This comparatively small but important hub for garment manufacturing has nearly 15 companies which are into direct export , or participate in international sourcing events to work directly with international buyers . Team Apparel Online met five such companies of Lucknow and discovered various facets of this multitalented city which is also called the ‘ City of Nawabs ’ and the capital of India ’ s biggest ( population-wise ) state , Uttar Pradesh .
Most of the apparel exporters / manufacturers of the city are satisfied with a majority of the things at the local level , be it overall infrastructure , working culture or further business opportunities . The companies , working here in a systematised way , have similar overheads as in any other hub . “ I am happy that we have an international airport ; roads are beautiful and people here believe in systems ; and above all , there is good working culture too ,” says Geetanjali Kapoor , Director , MLK Since 1965 . Geetanjali claims that her company is one of the most organised garment factories in the city , spread out in 50,000 sq . ft . area with all in-house facilities . The company has its own processing house in Tanda ( Akbarpur ), nearly 180 kilometres from Lucknow .
The benefit of being in Lucknow is that the traditional local craft of embroidery is available here only and nowhere else . And this is the only reason which compels buyers to source garments from here ; so the majority of Lucknow-based garment manufacturers are working with local embroidery techniques . Geetanjali is also associated with nearly 150 women who do chikankari for her . With 100 machines , her company exports garments to many countries and has recently entered into domestic market .
Another advantage of the city is the availability of good cottage industry which supports these exporters ; in case they have to outsource any work or process , it can be done easily . Faiz Sharafat , Director , Paramount Chikan Export appreciates this advantage of working in the city and says that it is a big support but he also highlights the challenge of being in Lucknow . “ Lucknow is comparatively a small city and we are totally depending on other cities for accessories etc . There is no nearby city to fulfil these requirements and some times it becomes the reason for the delay in production . To avoid this , we try to keep stock of such trims which are frequently in use ,” he adds . As export is under pressure , Faiz is exploring new opportunities
Though white or off-white dominates the collections of Lucknow , Paramount Chikan Export offers dresses in different colours
Chikankari-based ladies dresses by MLK Since 1965
Chikankari ’ s Cost
Some of the manufacturers claim that a dress / top with overall chinkarari work ( front and back ) and similar top without chikankari has a difference of 30 per cent in overall costing .
Different working , Different view
Shishir Kapoor , Director , MLK Exports
With a turnover of US $ 3 million and an expectation of 40 per cent growth , MLK Exports is the only apparel export house of Lucknow that is having a total headcount of 450 workers ( 65 per cent women ) and all on payroll . Claiming itself to be a cashless factory , Shishir Kapoor , Director of the company insists that at cluster level , the city requires more organised kind of working . “ Lucknow should have an apparel park so that whatever companies are working here , get push to be more organised . More streamlined structure and increased competition will help the industry to grow further ,” he says .
Till four years ago , MLK Exports was 100 per cent into chikankari-based garments but now 60 per cent of its products are similar to the garments being produced by Delhi-NCR based exporters . Shishir claims that despite using quality linen of Linen Club by Aditya Birla Group , he is costeffective just because of product know-how . Having five Niftians in his company , Shishir is of the view that getting a professional from top to bottom level is still difficult . These Niftians are working here as they belong to Lucknow itself .
44 Apparel Online India | AUGUST 16-31 , 2018 | www . apparelresources . com