DIRECTIONS BY
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he design headquarters of the house, which used
to be a religious academy in the 19th century and a
technical school before Margiela made it his own,
served as the perfect milieu for Galliano’s collection that
was wholly inspired from, ‘the idea of new glamour’.
In a preview before the main presentation, the designer
explained how he wanted to reconnoiter the modern
speed of glamour and talked of his woman saying, “She
puts on a red lip, she grabs a humble coat in haste and is
out.”
MAISON MARGIELA ARTISANAL
FALL 2017 COUTURE
The collection picked up the chaste elements of
conventional glamour such as sharp red nails, high heels, a
defiant décolleté, feathers and sequins – and really turned
these up over their heads. Deconstructing basics and
doing what both Margiela and Galliano have in common,
the latter presented reinvented versions of ‘grab and go’
pieces, exploiting the trench coat and using each of its
details like the belted waistline, cardboard beige colour
and of course its manly vibe giving them his own twists.
Keeping up with his distortive ways, he ribbed the
trench’s gabardine to mirror corrugated cardboard; used
translucent organza decorated with large paillettes to make
frilly coat dresses; slashed out sleeves, cut out bustiers on
moulded linocut dresses and used embroidery to create
optical illusions around the bosoms. Cunningly peacocking
between nonchalant mishmash and fastidious composition
– he put crystal threads on tulle bodices, superimposed
layers of fabrics together and not to forget the trifling
exaggerations on tattered silhouettes to weave it all
together.
Intermingling these with Scandinavian intarsia sweaters in
heavy cable knits and metallic cowboy boots all through
the collections, he kept up the cohesive ad hoc appeal of
the Fall/Winter 2017 couture collection.
www.apparelresources.com | JULY 16-31, 2017 | Apparel Online India
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