TECHNOLOGY UPDATE
Santoni leading Bangladesh to next level automation with seamless machines
Italy ’ s Santoni , the leading circular knitting machinery manufacturer , has been present in Bangladesh market since last 10 years and has been sensing a wave of change among Bangladesh manufacturers . “ It seems exporters have now understood that remaining stagnant at current technology will not take them far , they ultimately have to move to next level , and which they have started ,” affirmed Gianpiero Valsecchi , Sales Area Manager , Santoni SPA .
Witnessing the wave of automation , the company introduced its core strength of seamless circular knitting machines in Bangladesh two years ago . The overwhelming response received by the machines can be estimated by the fact that the company has sold 70 machines till now which are currently running in Urmi Group and Knit Asia .
Although there lies a huge gap in the speed of advancement in technologies between big manufacturing houses and small or medium manufacturing houses , Gianpiero admits that currently only top apparel exporting companies are adopting seamless technologies . He further explains , “ Seamless technology is not for everyone , it requires a certain level of skill and management to be handled . Training is another major factor that is needed with seamless machines .”
Zenit , single jersey four cam track machine , is equipped with 3 feeders per diameter inch which are capable to knit up to 4 track structures . Double guidance sinker cams in combination with well-designed singers with tail ensure uniform loops all over the fabric and less wear and tear of sinkers . Available in 24-42 inch diameters , the machine can knit products of gauge ranging from 10-44 and can reach a maximum speed of 42 RPM . The machine is available with tubular as well as open width frame , which can be changed from open to tubular with a simple operation .
Zenit can be used for various applications , like underwear , swimwear , medical and textiles . While underwear
Gianpiero Valsecchi , Sales Area Manager , Santoni SPA
category has been quite established , sportswear category is newest entrant . With growing fitness and importance , sportswear has been garnering great response in consumer countries , the major reason why Santoni seamless machines have been in demand in Bangladesh market .
However , Santoni is targeting each level of companies with its comprehensive range of machines such conventional circular knitting machines along with seamless circular knitting machines . The company further provides a good amalgam of quality with price as it has shifted its production to China about six years ago .
“ One thing to keep in mind is that seamless garments cannot be cut and sewn afterwards , if any mistake occurs . It will ruin the whole garment , so everything has to be precisely done right from designing ,” informed Gianpiero . In order to address this , the company has recently released new programming software , called Polaris . The next generation software is designed to be more user-friendly and help designers concentrate more on design rather than the knit construction . It takes only about two hours to design a garment , thus cutting down on the time . Polaris automatically manages the garment size according to the machine diameter , maintaining the same stitch length . Programs can be transferred to the machine by computer cable , USB key or net .
However , Santoni is targeting each level of companies with its comprehensive range of machines , such as conventional circular knitting machines along with seamless circular knitting machines . The company further provides a good amalgam of quality with price as it has shifted its production to China about six years ago .
Highlighting on the strong technical know-how and skill required to run Santoni seamless machines , Gianpiero explains the importance of training . Santoni has a training centre in Italy where every week training sessions are held . Attended by technical engineers and designers from customers ’ end , the training session can be customized as well . Right from the limitations and advantages of the machine , the training session covers working of machine , handling of machine , preparation of design on Polaris and preparation of garment on machine .
“ Not only people from customers ’ end , some brands also participate in the training to understand the possible use of machines ,” shares Gianpiero . Adidas , Nike and Puma are some of the brands that have nominated the Santoni machines for making of seamless garments .
Footwear is another area tapped by Santoni in Bangladesh market . Made on Mec-mor technology , which is a double jersey 44 ” diameter knitting machine . With gauges ranging from E7 to E20 , the machine has 24 feeds and can run on 16 RPM . Used to make shoe uppers , Mec-mor takes much lesser time , that is , 2-6 minutes to produce a shoe upper compared to flat knitting machines which takes around 40-50 minutes to produce one shoe upper . “ This is our major advantage and that ’ s why we are gaining popularity , “ concluded Gianpiero .
Mec-mor has been approved by brands like Under Armour and Adidas to produce shoe uppers .
32 Apparel Online Bangladesh | MAY 2018 | www . apparelresources . com